Hybris Artistica mystérieuse

These exceptional timepieces have a shared secret. They indicate the hour and minute with rare accuracy – but without hands. Here, the mysteries of time have met their match. Time is drawn into the dance of a suspended orbital flying tourbillon within a finely worked dial. The hour can be read from the tourbillon’s position on the dial, while the flange disc shows the passing minutes.

Hybris Artistica mystérieuse is no exception to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s rule of creative and mechanical perfection. At the heart of these remarkable timepieces beats the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 941, entirely designed and hand-assembled within the walls of the Manufacture. In its dazzling case, this made-to-measure movement forms the rhythmic backdrop for a new orbital flying tourbillon, a new oscillating weight, and a new carriage of a novel shape, as well as many other delights to be unveiled at the 2017 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Hybris Artistica mystérieuse : Ladies’ timepieces

A precious design that holds the mystery of time

An ode to eternal femininity, Hybris Artistica mystérieuse shares all the subtle virtues of women’s beauty, mystery, and grace. This magical work of art alternately conceals and reveals its treasures in an exquisite demonstration of how fine watchmaking can make the aesthetic codes of Haute Couture its own: a white gold case encrusted with snow-set diamonds; a mother-of-pearl dial covered in gold leaf, with embedded gemstones; a sapphire or ruby devoted to indicating the minutes.

The fascination of this new design is heightened by the absence of any hands. Who can say whether it is a watch, a jewel, or a bracelet? Assuredly it is an objet d’art, where an orbital flying tourbillon decorated in gilded ivy leaves takes 60 seconds to pivot on itself and 12 hours to rotate around the dial, all the while giving an accurate indication of the hour. The design of the tourbillon carriage has been revisited to form a graceful five-pointed star shape. The eye is instantly charmed and wants nothing more than to linger on this animated sphere.

On the flange around the dial, the artisan’s hand has left its equally visible imprint. A delightfully geometrical pattern made up of tiny ivy leaves in mother-of-pearl appears in transparency like a leitmotif. This refined trail forms the backdrop for a perfectly round precious stone – a sapphire or a ruby, depending on the model – which turns like a point of light to indicate the minutes.

An exquisite demonstration of the Rare Handcrafts “Métiers Rares” creative genius

The ivy leaf is crafted with remarkable finesse in depictions from several angles, forming a stunningly beautiful tableau. To further enhance the aesthetic impact, the Manufacture’s artisans have employed snow-setting, a technique that originated with Jaeger-LeCoultre. This technique allows the gem setter to freely choose the cut and positioning of individual diamonds of different diameters, and then juxtapose them in such a way as to entirely cloak the metal underneath. Apart from how exceptionally this type of setting scintillates with reflections of light – like the whirl of snowflakes hinted at in its name – it also feels astonishing under your fingertips.

As your hand turns the case over, a new surprise can be guessed at in the magnificent weight of pink gold. Its entirely hand-engraved full disc features a skeletonised finish that reproduces the hammered ivy leaf design. Skeletonisation is reserved for one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces, as this technique allows the beauty of the movement and parts to be stylised by bringing to life a sumptuous embroidery of metal.

Hybris Artistica mystérieuse : men’s timepieces

An unforgettable impression blending art and architecture

In a play of light and shadow, an embroidery of skeletonised mother-of-pearl draws a filigreed pattern of symmetrical arabesques across the blue aventurine dial. This geometrical tableau of perfect proportions sweeps from the flying tourbillon that opens onto the dial with its hand-guillochéd background, swelling to a crescendo in the flange with its distinct hour-markers. A 42-millimetre pink gold case envelops all this artistry. The absence of hands meant the dial could be lifted up a few millimetres in such a way as to reveal the intricate workmanship that brought it to life. From this close, even the tiniest details take on a whole new dimension. An incredible sense of depth is achieved by the semi-precious aventurine scattered with sparkling glints. Unrivalled in their refinement, they scintillate like constellations of stars on the lugs, case-band, and oscillating weight.

Held in a worthy vessel, time suspends its flight

Another impressive feat enhances its mechanical performance: this watch boasts an orbital flying tourbillon, considered one of the most prestigious complications. Designed with no need for a bridge, the tourbillon is free to pursue its perfectly orchestrated trajectory under the eye-catching pointed arch-shaped carriage set above it. The hour can be read from its position on the dial, while a discreet arrow indicates the minutes on the flange. The name of this watch without hands is indeed well chosen. Although it seems the mystery of time no longer holds any secrets for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s master watchmakers, it clearly never ceases to inspire them.

An original design allied with exceptionally crafted decoration

Notice that the mother-of-pearl applied on the dial is not the only skeletonised element. The oscillating weight was also decorated using this technique, so emblematic of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rare Handcrafts “Métiers Rares”. Skeletonisation is a traditional craft, executed by hand to a precision of a hundredth of a millimetre. The engraver uses specific tools to work on each part of the movement individually, paring back the material as much as possible without disrupting the way it functions. Following a long series of delicate operations (filing down, chamfering, polishing, chiselling, assembling) the movement is transformed into enchantingly patterned lacework.