·       New diamond-set case reaffirms Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of the jewellery crafts

·       The first Reverso One with a fully diamond-set bracelet

·       Manufacture Calibre 844 with the emblematic Duetto complication

The first watch to feature a rectangular case that can be turned over to protect its dial, the Reverso became a must-have almost immediately on its launch in 1931. Although originally conceived for polo players, this watch became recognised as a design icon, appealing to men and women from many walks of life, who embraced the originality of its design and the refinement of its Art Deco lines. Less than a year after its creation, feminine models of the Reverso appeared, subtly revisiting the original aesthetic codes: the rectilinear geometry of the reversible case with its bevelled triangular lugs, horizontal gadroons, and the chic simplicity of the dial.

A new expression of the alliance between Fine Watchmaking and High Jewellery

This year, in keeping with the pioneering spirit of La Grande Maison, which has created watches for women since its early days, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents two new expressions of the Reverso One. Cased in pink gold, they illustrate the union of Fine Watchmaking and High Jewellery down to the smallest detail. Expressing the full potential of an icon that never ceases to inspire the watchmakers of La Grande Maison and the craftsmen of the Métiers Rares workshop, the case of the new Reverso One Duetto Jewellery is entirely set with diamonds. One model is complemented by a shiny black leather strap and the other by a pink gold bracelet entirely set with diamonds. 

When the Duetto complication is adorned with pink gold and diamonds

In 1997, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Reverso Duetto, featuring two back-to-back dials, each with a set of hands driven by a single movement but turning in opposite directions in order to display the same time correctly on both sides – a complex mechanism that represented a technical achievement for the Manufacture’s watchmakers. For the new Reverso One Duetto Jewellery models, the hand-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 844 – entirely developed and produced within the Manufacture – now promises 50 hours of power reserve.

The new Reverso One Duetto Jewellery presents the back-to-back dial concept in a new setting that is as rare as it is precious. With 335 grain-set diamonds that cover the entire case-back and wrap seamlessly around its curved sides to frame the dial, the case is unquestionably a piece of jewellery, emphasised by the inverted diamond set into the crown. On the front, every detail of the silvered sunray dial with its guilloché decoration is delicately finished: the golden brackets in each corner, the applied Arabic hour numerals and hour markers, the Dauphine hands – all emblematic elements of the Reverso One models.

The reverse dial offers a striking contrast – dramatic and more mysterious. Enhanced by Art Deco-style gold hour markers – also emblematic of the collection – the black dial immediately catches the eye. Sprinkled across a background of glossy black lacquer, tiny gold flakes seem to form clusters of light particles, their radiance echoing the brilliance of the diamonds that adorn the case.

Setting by the Métiers Rares workshop

The Reverso One Duetto Jewellery raises the Duetto concept to even greater heights with a diamond-set bracelet – the first time that the case, bracelet attachment and bracelet links of a Reverso One have been fully gem-set. A total of 719 diamonds adorns this High Jewellery piece, including at least 384 for the bracelet alone.

To create the case and bracelet of the new Reverso One Duetto Jewellery, the gemsetters in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares workshop used the grain-setting technique, anchoring the diamonds with tiny, almost invisible gold beads that give the precious stones an unparalleled sparkle. Setting four diamonds together in perfect symmetry within the tiny dimensions of each pink gold link is testament to the gemsetters’ mastery of their craft.

The new Reverso One Duetto Jewellery reaffirms the watchmaking expertise and jewellery savoir-faire that La Grande Maison has cultivated with passion for several decades.  

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO ONE DUETTO JEWELLERY
CASE: 750/1000 pink gold

Dimensions: 40 x 20 mm, thickness: 9.09 mm

Calibre: Jaeger-LeCoultre Manually Calibre 844, manually wound

Power reserve: 50 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes (identical time on both sides)

Front dial: Silvered sunray

Back dial: Black glitter

Diamonds: 335 diamonds (2.44 carats)

Strap: Black alligator

Reference: Q336247J

REVERSO ONE DUETTO JEWELLERY (GOLD BRACELET)
Case: 750/1000 pink gold

Dimensions: 40 x 20 mm, thickness: 9.09 mm

Calibre: Jaeger-LeCoultre Manually Calibre 844, manually wound

Power reserve: 50 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes (identical time on both sides) 

Front dial: Silvered sunray

Back dial: Black glitter

Diamonds: 719 diamonds (8.15 carats)

Strap: 750/1000 pink gold entirely paved with diamonds

Reference: Q3362370

• Reaffirming Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of the decorative crafts and jewellery techniques
• Aesthetic beauty complemented by the mechanical sophistication of in-house Calibre 846

As a singular example of Art Deco design, the Reverso has remained eternally modern since its creation in 1931. While the design was originally conceived for the polo field, it began to appear in feminine form even before the first anniversary of its launch – in keeping with La Grande Maison’s philosophy of creating technically sophisticated timepieces for both men and women since its early years. Remaining true to itself through decades of social change and shifting tastes, the Reverso has fulfilled a potential that could hardly have been imagined at the time of its creation and, for 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new expression of the Reverso’s feminine side. Offered in two eye-catching colour variations, the Reverso One Precious Colours features a richly decorated case that pays direct tribute to Art Deco style.

The Geometry of Art Deco

Emerging in the mid-1920s and named (many decades later) after the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, Art Deco grew directly out of the tremendous social and cultural changes that followed the First World War. An exuberant and streamlined elegance that emphasised clean, strong lines as an organising principle, it reflected the new sense of freedom and hedonism that permeated every aspect of society. In surface decoration, the repetitive use of parallel lines and rectilinear motifs to form chevrons and zigzags was amplified by blocks of colour and gleaming metal accents, creating a visual dynamism that remains captivating to this day.

It is this design language that the talented artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house Métiers Rares® atelier have translated for the Reverso One Precious Colours, creating a dazzling pattern that covers the entire case back and wraps seamlessly around the case sides to frame the dial.

With the front dial facing outwards, the Reverso One Precious Colours has a rich and elegant presence, its white mother-of-pearl dial contrasting with the vivid colours of its enamelled frame and the sparkle of the diamond-set gadroons and lugs. The dial is finely detailed with the narrow gold brackets in each corner, the applied numerals and the Dauphine hands that are signatures of all Reverso One jewellery models. The watch is fastened to the wrist by a shiny alligator strap, colour-matched to the case decoration.

A tour-de-force of the decorative crafts

Turn the swivelling case over and the Reverso One Precious Colours becomes a piece of High Jewellery. Presented in shades of blue with black on a pink gold background, or in different tones of green on a white gold background, the pattern is executed in miniature-painted grand feu enamel with diamond-set accents, creating an optical illusion of depth and movement.

The process is an exacting one, requiring absolute mastery of each technique, as well as the impeccable coordination of the different crafts, beginning with enamelling. The base metal, of white gold or pink gold, must first be sealed with a fondant or transparent enamel and fired. Next, to create a pristine surface onto which the multi-coloured design will be painted, the enameller applies layers of opaque white enamel, with drying and firing after each layer. Then, with great precision, the lines that define the geometric design are hand-drawn with a fine point across the flat surface of the watch case, continuing seamlessly around the sides. Only then can the colouring can begin.

Using a very fine-tipped brush, the entire surface is hand-painted to create the blocks of different colour – again working layer by layer, with firing after every application – until the enameller is fully satisfied with the depth and intensity of each colour. Once the firing of the colours is completed, more layers of transparent fondant are applied. Known as the Geneva technique, this final coating preserves the colours and enhances the sense of depth; this exceptionally durable surface is then hand-polished to achieve a shiny, glazed appearance, with the perfectly smooth finish of a sheet of glass.

Enamelling the convex case sides of the Reverso One Precious Colours at the same time as the flat case back is particularly challenging, because the two areas require a different consistency of enamel for better adherence during the firing. Equally challenging is the question of colour: just as an artist would do with paints on a palette, the enameller blends different metal oxide pigments together to achieve the desired variation of blue or green. However, with grand feu enamelling the outcome is unpredictable because firing at 800 degrees Centigrade changes some pigments, causing colours not to blend as expected. A Reverso One Precious Colours case requires up to 15 firings, as well as multiple phases of drying at 200 degrees. The ability to master such challenges comes only with years of experience and the five enamellers in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® atelier have all thoroughly mastered the Geneva technique.

After enamelling, the Reverso case is handed over to the gem-setter, who must work with absolute precision to ensure that the diamonds are perfectly set. Using the grain-setting technique, tiny claws of gold are raised from the flat metal surface to hold each stone in place. This must be done without disturbing the finished enamel or encroaching on the perfectly straight lines that define the coloured fields and separate them from the gem-set ones. Setting the diamonds that decorate the Reverso One Precious Colours requires 45 hours of meticulous work, in addition to the preceding 80 hours of enamelling work. A great benefit of Jaeger-LeCoultre having its own decorative crafts atelier at the Manufacture, gathering multiple skills together under one roof, is that the different artisans are able to work so closely together, exchanging ideas and sharing each other’s creative energy.

Concealed within the case, the movement that powers the Reverso One Precious Colours is testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to mechanical excellence. Developed and produced entirely within the Manufacture, the hand-wound Calibre 846 was created specifically for the Reverso and, in keeping with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s philosophy of product integrity, is shaped to follow the contours of the rectangular case.

Reaffirming Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of the decorative crafts and fine jewellery techniques and deftly fusing functionality, aesthetics and fine watchmaking, this boldly feminine interpretation of the Reverso is a jewel to be worn, as well as a watch to tell the time.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

REVERSO ONE PRECIOUS COLOURS

Case: Pink gold or White gold 750/1000 (18 carats)

Watch dimensions: 40 x 20mm; thickness 9.09 mm

Calibre: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846

Power reserve: 38 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes

Dial: Mother-of-pearl

Caseback: Grand-feu enamel and diamonds

Diamonds: 277 diamonds ~1.6 carats

Strap: Pink gold – Blue alligator; White gold – Green alligator

Reference: Pink gold Q3292432; White gold Q3293432 – Limited production

For 2021 the Maison introduces four sparkling new Reverso One models that unite the codes of fine watchmaking, artistic crafts and High Jewellery to bring fresh colour, sophistication and glamour to the collection. The creation of these exquisite timepieces has brought together multiple artistic crafts – enamelling, engraving and gem-setting work – in a remarkable collaboration between highly skilled artisans who are at the peak of their powers.

Inspired by the decorative jewels worn in the 1920s, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s artistic team has created four exceptional models that celebrate the poetry of flowers, with two models in white gold and two in pink gold each showcasing rare handcrafts in different combinations.

The restrained elegance of the dials provides only a subtle hint that these are truly precious timepieces: the glow of white mother-of-pearl is accented by the numerals, and the golden brackets that define the four corners of the dial. It is the flip side of the case that gives full rein to the artistry and diverse skills that reside within the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture, with multiple artisans applying different crafts, collaborating in a carefully orchestrated process over the course of many weeks and months. When working on such complex and collaborative projects, the artisans’ work must follow a strict order: engraving first, then enamelling – which requires multiple coats of enamel pigment to add richness, nuance and visual depth. After each coat is applied, the enamel must be fired to set the colour – an exacting process that takes many days. To complete the piece, the background is decorated with lacquer or mother-of-pearl, or is set with diamonds – according to the model.

Precious Flowers in four interpretations

White Lilies – symbolising purity, devotion and honour in the language of flowers – decorate a white gold case. The blank gold case-back has been relief-engraved – a technique by which the background metal is sculpted away, leaving only the raised outlines of the floral design. Each of the blooms is entirely hand-engraved, replicating the texture of lily petals in fine detail. Contrasting with the cool tones of the white gold, the leaves are enamelled in a rich blue and the stamens in light blue. To create the sky-blue background, tissue-fine wafers of mother-of-pearl are cut to the exact shape then laid in place. Grain-set diamonds embellish the entire case, wrapping seamlessly from front to back, and the winding crown is adorned with a reverse-set diamond.

Pink Arums – a symbol of admiration and appreciation – complement the warm tones of a pink gold case. With a black lacquered background providing dramatic contrast, the blooms are enamelled in graduated shades of pink, while the foliage is fully set with diamonds. The winding crown is adorned with a reverse-set diamond, and grain-set diamonds embellish the entire case, wrapping seamlessly from front to back.

Two fully diamond-set models also feature Arums: Purple Arums (on pink gold) symbolise charm and passion, and Blue Arums (on white gold) symbolise grace and refinement. On these two watches, the flowers and leaves are all enamelled, and the entire background is snow-set with diamonds – an exacting technique that requires approximately one hour to set just five or six stones. Altogether, the gem-setting on these pieces requires a total of 95 hours. The floral design wraps seamlessly around the case-sides, from the back to the bezel, involving curves and angles that add a high degree of complexity to the artisans’ work.

Set in the elongated Reverso One case and complemented by shiny alligator straps in vivid colours, these new timepieces are a joyous expression of feminine elegance. Naturally, given the Maison’s mastery of technical watchmaking, there has been no compromise on the movement, and Reverso One Precious Flowers introduces the hand-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846, a rectangular shaped movement developed especially for the Reverso.

To be made in an edition of just 10 pieces of each model, every one of these miniature works of art is subtly different – their fine detailing and nuanced colour palettes the product of each artisan’s particular gestures, expressing their passion and personality, as well as their remarkable skill.

Conceived as an ode to 21st-Century femininity, these new Reverso One timepieces attest to the horological savoir-faire, artistic craftsmanship and jewellery-making skills of La Grande Maison, while paying homage to the women who inspire Jaeger-LeCoultre every day.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REVERSO ONE PRECIOUS FLOWERS

PINK ARUMS

Case: 40mm x 20mm in pink gold

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846 – manually wound with 38-hour power reserve

Functions: hours and minutes

Dial: white mother-of-pearl

Caseback: enamelled flowers and gem-set leaves on black lacquer, 409 diamonds for 2.59 cts

Strap: shiny pink alligator

Reference: Q3292430

Limited edition of 10 pieces

WHITE LILIES

Case: 40mm x 20mm in white gold

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846 – manually wound with 38-hour power reserve

Functions: hours and minutes

Dial: white mother-of-pearl

Caseback: engraved flowers and enamelled leaves on mother-of-pearl, 335 diamonds for 2.44 cts

Strap: shiny blue alligator

Reference: Q3293420

Limited edition of 10 pieces

PURPLE ARUMS

Case: 40mm x 20mm in pink gold

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846 – manually wound with 38-hour power reserve

Functions: hours and minutes

Dial: white mother-of-pearl

Caseback: fully diamond-set with enamelled flowers and leaves, 626 diamonds for 1.98 cts

Strap: shiny green alligator

Reference: Q3292401

Limited edition of 10 pieces

BLUE ARUMS

Case: 40mm x 20mm in white gold

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846 – manually wound with 38-hour power reserve

Functions: hours and minutes

Dial: white mother-of-pearl

Caseback: fully diamond-set with enamelled flowers and leaves, 626 diamonds for 1.98 cts

Strap: shiny blue alligator

Reference: Q3293401

Limited edition of 10 pieces