• Hand-wound Calibre 822: offering a 42-hour power reserve and compromising 108 components

• Iconic design and timeless proportions: featuring Reverso's signature swiveling and mid-sized steel case of 50 components, fitting perfectly on both men's and women's wrists

• Interchangeable bracelet designed by Casa Fagliano: paired with a black calfskin strap by the celebrated Argentinian polo bootmaker

Capturing the versatility and timelessness of the Reverso’s Art Deco design, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds with a new dial complemented by a polished steel case.

A STORY OF EVOLVING STYLE, FROM POLO FIELD TO DESIGN ICON

Created in 1931, the Reverso was designed to meet the demands of the newly fashionable ‘sporting gentleman’. A challenge was set by polo-playing military officers in India during the British Raj of 1858-1947 to create a watch that could withstand the rigours of the polo field. The Reverso was the answer – a masterful integration of form and function. Quickly adopted by tastemakers from all walks of life, the Reverso soon transcended its original sporting purpose as new variations appeared – for both men and women. However, its iconic double-sided case (historical patent CH159982) and distinctive Art Deco lines have remained constant, making the Reverso one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches.

The new dial design for the Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds perfectly expresses the remarkable ability of the Reverso to take on different personalities – sporty or elegant, contemporary or retro, masculine or feminine – without ever compromising its core identity.

A NEW “COIN STACK” GUILLOCHÉ PATTERN BLENDS VINTAGE APPEAL WITH CONTEMPORARY STYLE

Complemented by a polished steel case, the new design combines subtle textures with bold Arabic numerals in a fresh expression of contemporary elegance. The dial is distinguished by a newly developed guilloché pattern that decorates the centre of both the main dial and the small seconds display. The texture of the guillochage, reminiscent of the edges of a stack of coins, contrasts with the subtle, vertical brushing of the hours and seconds tracks, as well as the bold numerals.

Balancing elegance and modernity, the case size – introduced in 2024 – closely resembles the proportions of the original 1931 Reverso. Its 40.1 x 24.4 mm dimensions and slim, 7.56 mm profile make it comfortable and elegant on all wrists, both masculine and feminine. The blank metal caseback of the Reverso Monoface invites owners to express their personal style or celebrate a treasured memory with engravings or lacquer.

Fitted with the manually wound Calibre 822 and offering a 42-hour power reserve, this new variation of the Reverso Monoface is complemented by an interchangeable black calfskin strap designed by the celebrated Argentinian polo bootmaker Casa Fagliano.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

REVERSO CLASSIC MONOFACE SMALL SECONDS

Case: Stainless steel

Dimensions: 40.1 x 24.4 mm x 7.56 mm thick

Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds

Power Reserve: 42 hours

Dial: “Coin stack” Guilloché and vertically brushed

Water resistance: 3 bar

Strap: Interchangeable Casa Fagliano design black calfskin

Buckle: Pin buckle

Reference: Q3868520

• Historical and feminine proportions: its 32.5 x 16.3 mm dimensions were conceived especially for women’s wrists

• Tribute to the original Reverso Dame: first created in 1931

• Canvas for personalisation: offering over 1,880 options for engraving and lacquering

As it continuously expands the stylistic universe of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new feminine model that underlines the versatility and timelessness of the original Art Deco design: the Reverso Classic Monoface ‘Origin’.

FROM SPORTING ORIGINS TO ART DECO DESIGN ICON

Created in 1931, the Reverso was designed to meet the demands of the newly fashionable ‘sporting gentleman’. A challenge was set by polo-playing military officers in India during the British Raj of 1858-1947 to create a watch that could withstand the rigours of the polo field. The Reverso was the answer – a masterful integration of form and function. 

Quickly adopted by tastemakers from all walks of life, the Reverso soon transcended its original sporting purpose as new variations appeared – for both men and women. However, its iconic double-sided case (historical patent CH159982) and distinctive Art Deco lines have remained constant, making the Reverso one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches.

INTRODUCING A NEW SIZE RECALLING THE FIRST REVERSO DAME FROM 1931

Inspired by the earliest women’s Reverso timepieces of the 1930s, the Reverso Classic Monoface ‘Origin’ introduces a new case size to the current Reverso collection. Immediately after the Reverso was born, La Grande Maison began to create new models for women in a variety of forms, including wristwatches, handbag clips and pendants. The Reverso Classic Monoface ‘Origin,’ with its 32.5 x 16.3 mm case, shares the same dimensions as the Reverso Dame from 1931, making it an ideal choice for women who value elegantly discreet and classically proportioned designs.

The polished steel case is complemented by a dial that exudes timeless elegance. In the central rectangle of the dial, a guilloché sunray pattern appears to extend seamlessly into the markings on the chemin de fer minutes track. On the outer part of the dial, the subtle texture of vertical brushing forms the backdrop to transferred Arabic numerals. The Reverso Classic Monoface ‘Origin’ is available with a flexible five-row steel bracelet or with a blue alligator bracelet.

As with the earliest Reverso models, the blank metal caseback of this Monoface model is an ideal canvas for personalisation, inviting owners to express their individuality or celebrate a treasured memory with engraving or lacquer.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

REVERSO CLASSIC MONOFACE ‘ORIGIN’

Case: Steel

Dimensions: 32.5 mm x 16.3 mm x 6.95 mm

Movement: Quartz

Functions: Hours, minutes

Dial: Guilloché and vertically brushed

Water resistance: 3 bar

Strap: Steel or blue alligator

Reference: Steel bracelet Q3878120 / alligator bracelet Q3878520

• Calibre 948: reinterpreted with a new enamel dial and 18K (750/1000) pink gold case
• Exceptional Craftsmanship: featuring nine layers of enamel for the continent dome and 17 layers of lacquer for the ocean dial plate
• Rotational Precision: the Universal Tourbillon completes a full rotation around the dial every 24 hours

In 2025, La Grande Maison presents a new interpretation of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 with an enamel dial set in an 18K (750/1000) pink gold case. A uniquely artistic expression of universal time, Calibre 948 combines a world-time display with a flying tourbillon that makes a complete circuit of the dial in 24 hours: an allusion to Earth’s rotation on its axis and its orbit around the Sun. Showcasing the skills of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house Métiers Rares™ atelier, the new interpretation of Calibre 948 is offered in a limited edition of 20 pieces.

A TOURBILLON THAT TRACKS THE PASSING OF THE HOURS IN EVERY CITY

As with all measurements of time, the origin of our world’s time zones lies in astronomy, the passage of the 24-hour day being determined by the rotation of Earth on its own axis. However, time zones are a relatively recent concept. Until the 19^th Century, every city determined its own time, based on 12 noon being the time that the sun was at the highest point in the sky, regardless of the city’s latitude or longitude. At the International Meridian Conference in 1884, when it was decided that standardised timing and global norms were needed, Greenwich Observatory in London (longitude 0°) was chosen as the basis for calculating the world’s time zones, hence the term Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). For almost a century, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been distinguished by its mastery of complications able to display multiple time zones simultaneously.

Like all classical world timers, Calibre 948 identifies each time zone by the name of a city, which is inscribed on a blue opaline ring surrounding the central dial. Beyond the city ring are two concentric fixed rings. The inner ring indicates 24 hours, which are marked with applied indexes and laser-engraved numerals, and the outer ring features the minute track, which is a laser-engraved on a background of blue lacquer.

In a circular aperture to one side of the world map, the universal flying tourbillon appears to float weightlessly above the oceans, spinning in 60 seconds. As the tourbillon makes a complete 360-degree circuit of the dial in 24 hours, the domed map and the city ring turn in unison, mimicking the rotation of Earth.

A WORLD OF TIME EXPRESSED THROUGH THE MASTERY OF ANCESTRAL CRAFTS

To create the complex and richly coloured dial of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, the master artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares™ atelier united the skills of champlevé enamelling for the continents, with hand-guillochage and hand-lacquering for the oceans.

Measuring just 25.5mm in diameter, the multi-layered dial of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is a remarkable work of art in miniature. In keeping with world-timer tradition, the centre of the dial is dominated by a map of the world as seen from the North Pole. The outline of the continents is cut from a fine plate of 18K pink gold (750/1000) and decorated with champlevé enamel. However, unlike the traditional flattened image, this map floats above the main dial plate on a domed skeleton formed by the longitudes and latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere.

A masterpiece of laser-cutting precision, this complex and delicate domed structure brings lightness and depth to the dial and makes a subtle allusion to the depth and complexity of time measurement. Beneath the dome, representing the oceans, the dial plate is decorated with blue translucent lacquer applied over a wavy hand-guilloché pattern that suggests the movement of the sea.

Champlevé - which translates literally as ‘raised field’ - is a noble and ancient enamelling technique. The first step is to carve out depressions in the surface of the precious metal, conforming precisely to the outline of the desired image. These hollow areas are then filled with multiple layers of enamel, fired at very high temperatures after each layer, until they are flush with the original surface. Adding refinement and visual interest, the enameller uses a combination of opaque and translucent enamels to create areas of lighter and darker colour that suggest the continents’ different landscapes. The Calibre 948 dial required the meticulous work of nine layers of enamel for the dome.

Lacquering is a lengthy and exacting artisanal process used in the creation of the ocean dial plate. It involves the manual application of multiple layers of coating on the surface to be decorated. It begins with a clear coat of varnish, followed by a layer of colour. This is followed by up to 15 coats of translucent lacquer, to add depth and richness, with each coat requiring a precisely controlled drying process. The lacquering is completed by polishing the disc to a perfect finish that attracts the light and amplifies the richness of the colour.

AN EXCEPTIONAL CALIBRE COMPLEMENTED BY AN ELEGANT CASE

When Jaeger-LeCoultre created Calibre 948, it was the first time that a world-time complication had ever been united with a flying tourbillon. Moreover, the Universal Tourbillon, patented by Jaeger-LeCoultre, makes a complete circuit of the dial every 24 hours, corresponding to the length of a mean solar day. Consisting of 388 components, the automatic movement is an eloquent expression of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s technical expertise, having been conceived, developed and entirely produced within the Manufacture.

Despite its complexity, Calibre 948 has been designed to ensure that the watch is very simple to operate: the time is set with the crown, which synchronises all the time zones around the world. On arrival at a new destination, local time is set by the same crown, which moves only the hour hand, in one-hour jumps forwards or backwards, as the minutes and seconds continue running.

With its pure lines and refined proportions, the Master Grande Tradition case is a perfect foil for the complexity of the dial. Comprising more than 40 parts, its convex bezel contrasts with broad bevels on the lugs, and the hollowed-out lug sides add dynamic tension. Different surfaces are micro-blasted, polished and satin-brushed to maximise the play of light. The warmth of the pink gold is complemented by a dark blue alligator strap.

With its enamel dial and pink gold case, the new interpretation of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is a testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to uniting artistic creativity and sophisticated mechanics, always maintaining the fine balance between innovation and tradition.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 948

Case: 18K pink gold (750/1000)

Watch dimensions: 43mm diameter x 14.13mm thick

Calibre: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 948

Functions: Hours, minutes, universal flying tourbillon, world-time display with 24-hour indication

Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)

Power reserve: 48 hours

Dial: Blue translucent lacquer over a wavy guilloche pattern; domed skeleton structure decorated with champlevé enamel

Case-back: Sapphire crystal

Water resistance: 5 bar

Strap: Dark blue alligator leather with folding buckle

Reference: Q52824E2

Limited edition of 20 pieces

• Artistic reinterpretation: offering a dark blue lacquer, midnight-blue champlevé enamel dome and a golden-coloured filigree structure creating a 3-level dial

• Celestial mastery: a Cosmotourbillon comprising 73 components orbits of the dial in one sidereal day, complemented by a Northern Hemisphere sky chart

• An exclusive masterpiece: offered in a limited edition of 5 pieces

Jaeger-LeCoultre highlights its expertise in celestial complications with an artistic reinterpretation of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945, in a limited edition of five pieces. With a midnight-blue enamel dial set in an 18K Pink Gold (750/1000) case, this new opus celebrates La Grande Maison’s artistic creativity and mastery of haute horlogerie decorative crafts while reaffirming its technical ingenuity.

Originally created in 2010, Calibre 945 unites a star chart indicating the constellations in the Northern Hemisphere moving in real time, a minute repeater and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s unique flying Cosmotourbillon, which displays sidereal time.

ARTISTIC CREATIVITY: A DRAMATIC CELESTIAL AESTHETIC THANKS TO MÉTIERS RARES™

The new edition of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 demonstrates innovative aesthetic language showcasing the skills of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares™ atelier. Hand-decorated by the skilled artisans working in this internal department, its triple-level dome-shaped dial amplifies the celestial theme’s beauty – in particular that of the Cosmotourbillon – by adding a filigreed ‘Atomium’ structure that alludes to the lines connecting the constellations on the sky chart. The enamelled sky chart is slightly smaller than on previous iterations as it takes up only the centre of the dome rather than the entire dial, leaving more room for the intricate golden-coloured lattice structure. In both its name and its shape, the ‘Atomium’ evokes a structure of 117 interconnected spheres, reminiscent of constellations.

In a subtle allusion to the way the night sky seems to form a dome above us when we look at the stars, the ethereal ‘Atomium’, wraps around the Cosmotourbillon and holds the central dome of the dial, decorated with dark blue Grand Feu enamel with transferred constellations in white. The tourbillon seconds scale resembles rays of light emanating from the tourbillon, the seconds being indicated by a small pointer on the tourbillon.

INTERPRETING THE HEAVENS: THE COSMOTOURBILLON AND CELESTIAL TIME

Evolving the tourbillon far beyond its purely technical function as a regulating mechanism designed to defy gravity, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created the Cosmotourbillon. A celestial flying 60-second tourbillon, it also measures the passing of time by making a complete, anti-clockwise circuit of the dial in one sidereal day. It does so in tandem with the Northern Hemisphere sky chart that tracks the positions of the constellations in real time as seen from Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s home since its founding in 1833. Lasting 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds, a sidereal day is defined by Earth’s rotation measured in relation to fixed stars, whereas the 24-hour solar day (used for civil time) is measured by Earth's orbit around the Sun.

The flying Cosmotourbillon is secured only on the movement side, allowing for a full view of its kinetic beauty. The entire mechanism consisting of 73 components is held by a lightweight titanium carriage to provide an unobstructed view of the regulating system. Mounted on lubricant-free ceramic ball bearings, its 10-millimetre monometallic balance wheel beats at a 4 Hz frequency.

Since precise functionality is a key tenet of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the celestial display is based on a calendar complication that enables the precise setting of the constellation position, as they really appear in the sky. Indicated by the golden-coloured sun-shaped pointer at the edge of the rotating dial, it also performs a full revolution around the dial in 24 hours, to indicate 24-hour time.

THE SOUND OF THE HEAVENS: A MINUTE REPEATER MARKS TIME

The exquisite chimes of a minute repeater complement the romance of celestial timekeeping, and so this exceptional timepiece also takes Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in chiming watches – one of the most challenging and rewarding of all horological complications for a watchmaker to master – to new heights by uniting the astronomical complications with it. The technical difficulty of creating a minute repeater lies in the complexity of the mechanism needed to transcribe the precise time shown by the hands into a series of perfectly programmed strikes with different sounds for hours, quarters and minutes. The artistic challenge is that the chimes must be pure, harmonious and clearly audible.

At Jaeger-LeCoultre, this continuing quest for the ideal sound has produced several patented innovations, including cathedral crystal gongs – fixed on the rear sapphire crystal for maximum resonance – trébuchet hammers that vastly improve the acoustic qualities of the striking mechanism, and a silent governor so there is no distraction from the crystal-clear sound of the magical mechanism. In the minute repeater mechanism of Calibre 945, these inventions contribute a special magic that complements the romance of celestial timekeeping.

THE COMPLEXITY OF SIMPLICITY: AN EXCEPTIONAL CASE FOR A REMARKABLE WATCH

The case is a perfect complement to the artistic dial and mechanical sophistication of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945. Measuring 45 mm x 16.05 mm and comprising more than 80 parts, its convex bezel is complemented by broad bevels on the lugs, while micro-blasted finishes inside the lugs add dynamic tension; the repeater slide is tapered to harmonise with the curving case sides. Different surfaces are micro-blasted, polished, and satin-brushed to maximise the play of light and emphasise the details.

Enhancing both aesthetics and ease of use, the watch has no recessed buttons in the side of the case for setting: all functions and displays are set via the crown. The minute repeater is activated by a slide on the left side of the case.

The essence of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 is the way in which it artistically and visually interprets astronomical timekeeping for the wrist, using the dial to display our link to the cosmos on both literal and philosophical levels – combining mechanical creativity with intricate decorative crafts.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBRE 945

Case: 18K pink gold (750/1000) with sapphire crystal case-back

Dimensions: 45 mm diameter x 16.05 mm thickness

Calibre: manually wound Manufacture movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 945

Functions: hours/minutes, 24-hour indication; Cosmotourbillon indicating sidereal time; celestial disc with star chart indicating the constellations in the northern hemisphere in real time; minute repeater

Power reserve: 40 hours

Reference: Q5262480

Dial:  a midnight-blue Grand Feu enamel dome with a golden-coloured filigree structure

Water resistance: 5 bar

Strap: Blue alligator leather with small-scale alligator lining and pink gold adjustable folding clasp

Reference: Q5262480

• Contemporary allure: a new two-tone and grained sector dial which creates a distinctive aesthetic, presented in a limited edition of 500 pieces
• A signature complication: inspired by the Maison’s renowned Triple Calendar movements of the 1940s
• A high-performing movement: the Calibre 866 delivers a 70-hour power reserve and a complete calendar, featuring a jumping date hand that ensures an unobstructed view of the moon-phase indication

Jaeger-LeCoultre brings contemporary allure to one of its classical, signature complications with a new interpretation of the Master Control Calendar. The grained dial in two shades of grey pays a subtle homage to the sector dials of the mid-20^th century, while offering a contemporary interpretation of a classic design. Powered by Calibre 866, the new model will be offered in a limited edition of 500 pieces.

INSPIRED BY TWO HISTORIC REFERENCES

Renowned for the triple calendar moon-phase movements that it developed in the 1940s, and that were adopted by several other leading Maisons, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced a new version of the complication in 2020 as part of the relaunched Master Control collection.

50 years after creating its first triple calendar movements, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Master Control Collection in 1992, naming it after its pioneering ‘1000 Hours Control’ certification. The certification protocol, which set a new standard at the time by testing the entire cased-up watch, has continually evolved in response to technological advances. The Collection also established its own aesthetic codes, defined by technical rigour and stylistic restraint, reinterpreting the classic round watches of the 1950s to create a timeless yet contemporary elegance.

A DISTINCTIVE NEW VISUAL APPROACH

The classical triple calendar complication – also known as a complete calendar – shows the day, date, month, and moon-phases, with the days and months in the upper half of the dial, the moon-phase in the lower part and the dates marked around the periphery, indicated by a hand.

The two-tone effect of the new grained dial creates a visually compelling and highly legible version of this classical layout, with indications divided into distinct sections defined by alternating shades of light and dark grey. In the lighter-toned centre, the day and month windows are positioned at the top, with black decal indications on white discs. In the lower part of the central area, the moon phase display is contained within the small seconds sub-dial. Set against a blue sky dotted with stars, the polished moon subtly reflects the dark grey hue of the ring displaying the hours. Outside the hour circle, the minutes chapter ring is light grey, while the outermost circle displays the date against a dark grey background. The contrast between the light and dark greys is amplified by the way the grained texture of the dial absorbs and reflects the light differently, according to the shade of grey.

Small flashes of red on the date indications around the dial and on the date hand add a discreet touch of contrast. The new dial retains all the other design codes of the Master Control collection: the elongated triangular applied indexes, complemented by Arabic numerals at 12, 3, and 9; the faceted Dauphine hands, polished on one side and brushed on the other; and the finely balanced, classical layout of the indications. Completing the signature aesthetic, the 40 mm Master Control case features refined finishes – polished on the bezel and the top of the lugs, and finely brushed along the sides, exuding a relaxed and understated elegance.

THE IN-HOUSE MECHANICAL MOVEMENT

Equipped with the Manufacture’s calendar movement Calibre 866, the Master Control Calendar displays hours, minutes, seconds, complete calendar and moon-phase indications. The high-performance self-winding movement offers a power reserve of 70 hours. Calibre 866 introduces an original and fascinating new variation to the traditional format of dates marked around the outer periphery and indicated by a hand. In homage to the beauty of the moon-phase, the date hand is fitted with a rapid-gliding feature, signalled by red arrows on the date ring. Once a month, between the 15^th and the 16^th, the red-tipped date hand leaps swiftly across the 90 degrees that separate the two dates, ensuring that the moon-phase display is never obscured.

With the Master Control Calendar, Jaeger-LeCoultre builds upon its legacy of innovation and accomplishment in a continuing evolution of technical expertise and creative design. The new dial pays homage to one of the Maison’s signature complications, reimagining its aesthetic for the 21^st century.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

MASTER CONTROL CALENDAR

Case: Stainless steel

Dimensions: 40 mm x 10.95 mm

Calibre: Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 866

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, month, day, date, moon-phase

Power Reserve: 70 hours

Dial: Two-tone grey grained

Water resistance:  5 bar

Strap: Black calfskin, interchangeable

Buckle: Interchangeable double folding clasp

Reference: Q4148450

Limited Edition: 500 pieces

• High-complication movement: Calibre 985, comprising 431 parts
• Cylindrical flying tourbillon: 83 components weighing 0.386 grams in total 
• Complex case: more than 80 components, with multiple surface finishes

Jaeger-LeCoultre continues its pursuit of precision in mechanics and aesthetics with three new interpretations of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985. Two are cased in Platinum (950/1000) with an eye-catching blue dial, one with a polished bezel and one with a diamond-set bezel, and the third is cased in 18k pink gold (750/1000) with a brown dial. Developed in 2013, Calibre 985 unites a perpetual calendar and moon phase display with the fascination of a flying tourbillon equipped with a cylindrical hairspring.

INSPIRED BY THE QUEST FOR PRECISION

The pursuit of precision at Jaeger-LeCoultre is driven by the values of its founder, Antoine LeCoultre. His obsession with accuracy, not only in the design and structure of his calibres, but also in the finishing, assembly and decoration of each case and dial, has inspired every succeeding generation to continue the journey. Calibre 985, incorporating a tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring, masterfully demonstrates the Manufacture’s expertise in this quest for precision. 

The regulating organ – comprising the balance wheel, hairspring and escapement – is one of the most important parts of a movement as it governs the accuracy of timekeeping. Having focused considerable effort for many years on researching the effect of incorporating tourbillons into the regulating organ and on the impact of differently shaped hairsprings, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a deep understanding of how this affects the accuracy of the watch. The expansion and contraction of the hairspring controls the back-and-forth oscillations of the balance wheel, and it is crucial that these oscillations are concentric in order to limit the impact of both gravity and magnetism.

The Manufacture’s engineers discovered that the shape and attachment (terminal curves) of a hairspring determine the way it contracts and expands. They determined that different shapes oscillate differently, according to the specific construction of the regulating organ in a particular calibre. This has prompted the development of hairsprings in S-shape, spherical, semi-spherical and cylindrical forms. Being one of the very few Manufactures able to shape its own hairsprings in-house gives La Grande Maison a distinct advantage in this respect. 

The helical or cylindrical form of the hairspring was invented in 1776 then largely forgotten until the 21st century. The ends of the spring coil inwards and it offers enhanced isochronic performance, beating concentrically in every position, regardless of the amplitude (the back-and-forth swing of the balance wheel) or remaining power reserve. This is the hairspring used in Calibre 985.

CALIBRE 985 – THE PRECISION OF COMPLICATIONS AND DECORATION

A complex and sophisticated movement entirely developed and produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Calibre 985 is composed of 431 parts, of which the flying tourbillon alone comprises 83 components. Crafted in titanium, it weighs just 0.386 grams. The enhanced isochronism of the cylindrical hairspring made it the right choice for this movement, which delivers all the functions of a perpetual calendar, as well as a moon phase that will require no adjustment for 122 years. 

On the reverse side of the watch, the sapphire crystal case back reveals the exceptional precision of the Haute Horlogerie finishes on the movement, including blued screws, sunrayed Côtes de Genève, snailing and hand-bevelling. The winding rotor in 22k rose gold (916/1000) is decorated with sunray engraving and a reproduction of the gold medal awarded to Antoine LeCoultre at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London for his development of precisely calibrated stamping, cutting machines and mechanical lathes which allowed the components’ interchangeability.

EXCEPTIONAL CASES IN PLATINUM AND IN PINK GOLD WITH A SIGNATURE DIAL

Sophisticated in design and complex in structure, the Master Grande Tradition case consists of more than 80 components. With screwed in lugs and a mix of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces, the case is reserved for only the Maison’s most complex calibres. 
 

The warm glow of the pink gold case is complemented by the soft brown of the corresponding dial, while the cool tones of the platinum case create a striking contrast with the rich blue dial, enhanced by the high polish of the bezel. On the second platinum-cased model, the colour contrast is amplified by diamonds. The bezel is set with 72 baguette-cut diamonds, making a total of approximately 3.4 carats – the subject of 15 hours of gem-setting work in the Manufacture’s own Métiers Rares™ atelier.

A hand-bevelled bridge spans across the dial, with the area surrounding the tourbillon set below the rest of the dial for both aesthetic effect and technical reasons. Tiny details and subtle colour variations add visual interest: the minute track and periphery of each sub-dial are micro-blasted, the inside of the sub-dials is opaline, appearing to change colour in different lights, and the three-dimensional letters and numerals of the calendar indications are laser-engraved in relief, to stand out against their background. Given the emphasis on timekeeping precision, the seconds are indicated on an arc-shaped 20-second scale below the tourbillon aperture – with the three blue hands mounted on the tourbillon cage each measuring a 20-second interval as the tourbillon completes a rotation around its axis every 60 seconds.

The outstanding Master Grande Tradition watch calibres, each comprising multiple complications and several hundred components, epitomise La Grande Maison’s spirit of innovation and devotion to precision. This complexity is complemented by remarkable precision in the decoration and finishing of both movement components and habillage. The new dials of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 are elegant and pure, while the sapphire crystal case back offers a glimpse into true watchmaking mastery.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985

Case: Platinum (950/1000)

Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27 mm thick

Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985

Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day

Frequency: 28,800 vph

Power Reserve: 45 hours

Dial: Blue

Caseback: Sapphire crystal

Water resistance: 5 bar

Strap: Blue alligator with small scale alligator lining, pin buckle

Reference: Q5246580

MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985

Case: Platinum (950/1000)

Dimensions: 72 baguette-cut diamonds (3.4 carats)

Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27 mm thick

Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985

Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day

Frequency: 28,800 vph

Power Reserve: 45 hours

Dial: Blue

Caseback: Sapphire crystal

Water resistance: 5 bar

Strap: Blue alligator with small scale alligator lining, pin buckle

Reference: Q5246508

MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985 

Case: Pink Gold (18k – 750/1000) 

Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27mm thick 

Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985 

Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day 

Frequency: 28,800 vph

Power Reserve: 45 hours

Dial: Brown 

Caseback: Sapphire crystal

Water resistance: 5 bar

Strap: Brown alligator with small scale alligator lining, double folding buckle 

Reference: Q5242461

• A complex dial: 35 layers of lacquer, enriched with 3 different finishes
• In-house movement: Calibre 761 with an integrated chronograph mechanism
• Versatile style: 2 interchangeable straps

Redefining the modern sporty-chic watch since 2018, the Polaris collection has been conceived for everyday adventures. In 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre enriches the collection with a Polaris Chronograph featuring a new dial in the Maison’s signature Ocean grey lacquer.

WHEN ELEGANCE MEETS ADVENTURE

Deftly balancing the robust capabilities and practical functions of a sporty watch with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature elegance, the Polaris line pays direct homage to the Maison’s emblematic diving watches of the 1960s, capturing their sporting spirit and reinterpreting their vintage appeal in elegant and confidently contemporary style. 

With the versatility of both a casually elegant everyday timepiece and a high-performing sports watch, the Polaris Chronograph is designed for optimal comfort on the wrist. Well-balanced and highly wearable, its 42mm steel case features the key Polaris design codes: taut lines, sharply curving lugs, a thin bezel, a glass-box crystal, and an eye-catching mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The large crown – a signature of the 1960s model that inspired the contemporary Polaris line – and robust pushers are designed for better grip and ease of use.

OCEAN GREY LACQUER ADDS FRESH ALLURE TO THE SPORTY DIAL

Anchored by the clean, modern lines of the case, the new ocean grey dial is bold and visually striking, thanks to the richness of the lacquer and the contrast of bright orange details that speak to the chronograph’s sportier side.

Complex in construction, the dial is composed of a central disc, a middle ring, to which the hour markers are applied, and an outer ring that is marked with the tachymeter scale. Sunray brushing on the central disc creates a subtle contrast with the smooth gloss of the hours ring; on both sections, the colour of the lacquer is graduated from light to dark, adding great visual depth to the dials. 

The lacquering of the dial components is a lengthy and exacting process, with each layer of coating being applied manually. It begins with the application of a clear coat of varnish, followed by four layers of colour. Then a layer of black is applied to create the gradient effect. The challenge lies in controlling both the shade and the gradient, so that the two main sections of the dial match each other. This is followed by 30 coats of translucent lacquer, to add depth and richness. 

The layout of the Polaris Chronograph dial is timeless and intuitive to read, featuring a central chronograph seconds hand to enable more precise reading of this key measurement. Balanced by the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, the sub-dial at 9 o’clock animates the dial with a running seconds display. The circular graining of these sub-dials adds more visual interest, contrasting with the glossy central dial and the textured finish of the hours ring. Orange accents draw the eye to the key indications and add dynamism to the overall composition. In keeping with the contemporary Polaris design codes, skeletonised hands allow greater visibility of the indications and bold trapezoid-shaped indexes balance the fine detail of the chronograph displays. Luminescent coating on the indexes, numerals and the tips of the hands enhances legibility in all light conditions – an essential attribute for an adventure watch.

HARNESSING A LEGACY OF WATCHMAKING EXCELLENCE

The sapphire crystal case-back reveals the automatic movement, Calibre 761 – a quintessential example of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s approach to watchmaking that combines high performance with mechanical elegance. Powered by twin barrels, the fully integrated chronograph movement features a column-wheel chronograph mechanism with vertical clutch and offers a 65-hour power reserve. The fine finishing includes blued screws and Côtes de Genève decoration on the baseplate as well as on the signature open-worked winding rotor bearing the ‘JL’ motif. The movement was designed, produced and assembled by Jaeger-LeCoultre at its Manufacture in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. 

Underlining its versatile and sporty spirit, the Ocean Grey Polaris Chronograph is presented with two interchangeable straps – one in blue-grey canvas and one in textured black rubber – enabling a change in style and attitude in a matter of moments.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

POLARIS CHRONOGRAPH OCEAN GREY

Case: Steel

Dimensions: diameter 42 mm; thickness 13.39 mm

Calibre: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 761

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds; chronograph with 30-minute counter, central seconds indication and tachymeter

Power Reserve: 65 hours

Dial: Ocean grey lacquer

Strap: Black rubber and additional blue grey canvas strap; interchangeable folding buckle

Water resistance: 10 bar

Reference: Q9028651

• Introducing the Polaris Geographic – a signature Jaeger-LeCoultre complication that reinterprets travel time
• The Polaris Date features a gradient dial in a newly created ocean grey lacquer
• The Polaris Perpetual Calendar is presented in pink gold with a new gradient green lacquer dial

Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to enrich the Polaris collection in 2024. New to Polaris, the Maison’s signature Geographic travel time complication is reinterpreted for this elegant, sporty collection, while two existing models – Polaris Date and Polaris Perpetual Calendar – are offered with new dial colours.

Polaris: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s spirit of elegance interpreted in contemporary sporting style

When Jaeger-LeCoultre revived the historic Polaris name in 2018, it redefined the modern sporty-elegant watch with an entirely new line of timepieces conceived for everyday adventures. Deftly balancing the practical functions and robust capabilities of a sports watch with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s distinctively elegant and timeless aesthetic, the Polaris collection pays direct homage to the Maison’s eponymous diving watches of the 1960s.

With their high-performing calibres and distinctive style, the watches of the Polaris collection capture the sporting spirit of their predecessors, reinterpreting their vintage appeal in elegant and confidently contemporary style to create highly versatile, modern classics.

The Polaris collection’s strong design codes are anchored in cases distinguished by off-centred crowns, taut lines, glass-box crystals, narrow bezels and a dynamic mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The distinctive dial architecture is complemented by skeletonised hands, assertively designed Arabic numerals and elongated trapezoid indexes. All elements are coated in SuperLuminova for optimum legibility in low light conditions. Complex in construction, the Polaris dial is enhanced by gradient colour and the use of different decorative finishes – opaline, graining, sunray-brushing and snailing, according to the model – beneath a coating of rich and shiny lacquer. The colour is graduated from light to dark, adding great visual depth and dynamism to the dials.

Lacquering is a lengthy and exacting process, with each layer of coating being manually applied. It begins with the application of up to four layers of colour, then one or two layers of black, to create the gradient. The challenge lies in perfectly controlling both the shade and the gradient, so that the dial sections match perfectly. This is followed by 30 coats of translucent lacquer, to add depth and richness. The process is completed by polishing the components to a perfect finish.

Introducing the Polaris Geographic – a signature complication that reinvents travel time

Continuing the tradition of adding useful auxiliary functions to the Polaris collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Polaris Geographic. La Grande Maison’s unique interpretation of the travel watch, the Geographic has become a signature complication of the Manufacture.

Rather than indicating only the hour of a second time zone, the Geographic complication also provides a 24-hour Night and Day indicator and, in an aperture at the bottom of the dial, displays the name of a city relating to each of the 24 major time zones, with those that observe daylight savings clearly marked. This gives travellers the option of setting the second time according to location (by turning the crown at 10 o’clock), rather than needing to calculate the time difference; when a city is chosen, the corresponding time is automatically displayed. Thanks to a stop-seconds feature, this second time zone is accurate to the hour, minute and second.

The lacquer dial features a new colour – ocean-grey.  Evocative with an air of mystery, calling to mind the colour of the sea on a cloudy day, it is applied in a double gradient finish that adds visual depth and dynamism, and is coated with 35 layers of lacquer. The displays are arranged in a pleasingly asymmetric layout, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock and the power reserve indicator in the upper left sector of the dial. Orange accents draw the eye to key information points, contrasting with the ocean-grey and adding a lively touch to the overall composition.

The sapphire crystal case-back reveals the finely finished automatic movement, Calibre 939. A quintessential example of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s approach to watchmaking, which combines mechanical elegance with high performance, it offers a power reserve of 70 hours. Like all of the Maison’s calibres, the movement was designed, produced, finished and assembled within its own Manufacture in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux.

Underlining the versatility of this confident and refined expression of a highly useful complication, the new Polaris Geographic is presented with an interchangeable folding buckle and a pair of interchangeable straps – textured black rubber and blue-grey canvas – that enable a change in style and attitude in a matter of moments.

New colours add fresh allure to distinctive lacquered dials

The Polaris collection is further enriched as two models are offered with new dial colours – created with the Polaris collection specifically in mind. The Polaris Date is presented with a gradient ocean-grey dial that elevates the confident modernity of its design to a new level and the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is offered in pink gold with an elegant and visually striking gradient green dial that perfectly complements the richness and warmth of the case metal. Both dials feature the Polaris signatures of three different surface textures, and double-gradient colour finished with 35 layers of lacquer to create visual richness and depth. Subtle orange highlights add a note of sporty dynamism.

Introduced in 2018, the year that the contemporary Polaris collection was launched, the Polaris Date is the epitome of sporty elegance, its link to the design of the Maison’s classic 1960s diving watches very evident in the uncomplicated modernity of the dial, as well as the signature double crown. One crown is used for adjusting the time, the other for rotating the inner bezel. Visible through the sapphire case-back, the new-generation automatic Calibre 899, entirely created in-house, offers a 70-hour power reserve – highly practical for today’s active lifestyles. The Polaris Date is presented on a textured rubber strap that is easily interchangeable with a metal bracelet of other straps from the Polaris range. The 42mm steel case is water-resistant to 20 bar.

The Polaris Perpetual Calendar, introduced to the collection in 2022, features one of horology’s most complex, useful and greatly prized complications. A miniature mechanical computer, the perpetual calendar always shows the correct date, automatically adjusting for the different duration of months and even for leap years. It needs no manual correction until 2100, and, after that, only on centenaries that are not also leap years. The automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868, offering a power reserve of 70 hours, was designed, produced and assembled within the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre.

With an emphasis on symmetry and legibility, three slightly recessed sub-dials display the date, day and month, balanced by a moon-phase display at 6 o’clock, which features the age of the moon as well as its phases in both Hemispheres – a pleasing reminder that calendars had their origins in astronomical phenomena. The 42mm pink gold case features an interchangeable strap system enabling rapid changes between the two straps presented with the Polaris Perpetual Calendar – black alligator for a more dressy mood and textured dark green rubber for a more sporty style.

The new additions to the Polaris line amplify the relaxed and contemporary elegance of the collection, while underlining its sporty and purposeful character, anchoring it ever more strongly as a modern classic perfectly suited to life’s everyday adventures.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

POLARIS GEOGRAPHIC

Case: Steel

Dimensions: 42 mm diameter x 11.54 mm thick

Calibre: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 939

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, second time-zone, power reserve, 24 time-zones, night and day display

Power Reserve: 70 hours

Dial: Gradient ocean-grey lacquer

Water resistance: 10 bar

Strap: Black rubber and blue-grey canvas

Reference: Q9078640

POLARIS DATE

Case: Steel

Dimensions: 42 mm diameter x 13.92 mm thick

Calibre: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 899

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, inner rotating bezel

Power Reserve: 70 hours

Dial: Gradient ocean-grey lacquer

Water resistance: 20 bar

Strap: Black rubber

Reference: Q9068650

POLARIS PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Case: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)

Dimensions: 42 mm diameter x 11.97 mm thick

Calibre: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar (day, date, month, year), moon phases in both Hemispheres and age of the moon, adjustment security zone, inner rotating bezel

Power Reserve: 70 hours

Dial: Gradient green lacquer

Water resistance: 10 bar

Strap: Green rubber, black alligator leather

Reference: Q908263J

In the video, Kim Woo-Bin is immersed in each of these environments in turn, wearing the new Polaris Perpetual Calendar, as he narrates an evocative text that reflects on concepts of perpetual movement and action – the eternal cycles and ever-changing sense of time, as expressed by the natural world.

Woven throughout, glimpses of different celestial bodies remind us that our sense of passing time, as well as its measurement by calendars, clocks and watches, is governed by the rhythms of the cosmos and the regular cycles of astronomical phenomena – a subtle link to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Stellar Odyssey.

“When we immerse ourselves in nature and really notice its rhythms, we understand time in a different way,” says Kim Woo-Bin. “And this understanding adds so much meaning to every watch that we wear – but especially the Polaris Perpetual Calendar, as it translates the rhythms of the celestial bodies into days, months and years.”

Keeping Perpetual Time

In 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre has enriched its sporty-chic Polaris line with a perpetual calendar for the first time. Elegant and visually striking, the dial of the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is lacquered in a deep gradient-blue colour, taking its aesthetic cues from the Polaris Mariner Memovox with assertive hour indexes, skeletonised hands and slightly recessed subdials for the calendar displays.

With an emphasis on balance and legibility, the date, day and month indications are balanced by a moon-phase display at 6 o’clock – a pleasing reminder that calendars had their origins in astronomical phenomena.

For Kim Woo-Bin, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar may be the ideal timepiece: “With life in this modern world moving so fast, it becomes all the more important to anchor ourselves in time,” he explains. “The Polaris Perpetual Calendar not only provides all of the information I need, but it can also adapt to any situation or environment with elegance.”

Thanks to the new in-house automatic movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA, the classical Northern Hemisphere moon-phase display is complemented by a retrograde display of moon phases in the Southern Hemisphere. Enhancing the practical utility of the Polaris Perpetual Calendar, the new movement has an extended power reserve, offering 70 hours of autonomy. To complement the elegant and visually striking dial, the 42mm case is available in a choice of steel or pink gold, and features a ‘rapid-change’ attachment for the interchangeable straps. In addition to two straps offered with each watch – rubber and alligator with the pink gold model; rubber and a steel bracelet with the steel model – a range of calf leather straps enables wearers to easily personalise the watch and adapt it for every daily adventure.

A signature model of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Memovox Polaris has been a mainstay of uniquely utilitarian watchmaking since its introduction in 1968. Diving watches are a staple of any sports watch collection, but few have maintained as consistent a following over the decades as the Memovox Polaris.

Launched in 2018, the Polaris Date drew inspiration from the 1968 Memovox Polaris, one of the most popular Polaris models of all time, demonstrating the durable appeal of this design, with its subtle vintage touches through the vanilla luminescent coating. In 2022, the Polaris Date is now available with a gradient deep green dial.

A lacquered, double-gradient dial with multiple textured finishes allows the Polaris Date to prioritise legibility without the slightest compromise in aesthetics. A balanced mix of opaline, grained and sunrayed surfaces clearly defines each key dial segment, from the mobile inner bezel ring to the minute track. The colour gradient ranges from light olive to verdant rainforest, taking on different shades according to the angle of reflected light. A coat of translucent lacquer brings mesmerising depth to the dial, allowing the vanilla-tinted dial indexes to stand out with perfect clarity.

At the core of the Polaris collection is its high levels of performance in extreme environments. The mobile inner bezel, controlled by the crown at the 2 o’clock position, is a key feature of a true diver’s watch, permitting the wearer to measure timing offsets or countdowns with great precision. The Polaris Date features a transparent case-back, while being water resistant to 200m, making it equally at home in an urban cityscape or the pelagic depths of the ocean.

Measuring 42mm in diameter, the case of the Polaris Date remains subtle, thanks to its satin-finished surfaces, with polished chamfers on the case lugs and narrow bezel. This allows the dial to take centre focus, showcased by the glass-box crystal that recalls the Plexiglas dial crystals of mid-century timepieces.

For maximum versatility in wear, the Polaris Date comes with a green rubber strap that is equipped with a quick-change system. Within seconds, the strap can easily be swapped with a wide range of Jaeger-LeCoultre bracelets and straps with perfect compatibility.

The new green dial of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date represents the all-terrain nature of the timepiece, emphasised by its rugged, matt-finished case construction. Its heritage shines through in the vanilla-hued Super-LumiNova® indexes, suggestive of a well-aged aesthetic. Within the 42mm steel case beats the latest-generation Calibre 899, with 70 hours of power reserve. Now, more than ever, the Polaris is the elegant sports watch for a life of adventure.

The Polaris Date is a Boutique Edition and will be available exclusively from Jaeger-LeCoultre e-commerce for a month.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

POLARIS DATE

Dimensions: 42mm x 13.92mm

Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 899AB

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date, rotating inner bezel

Power reserve: 70 hours

Frequency: 28,800

Dial: gradient green lacquer with opaline, grained and sunrayed finishes

Case: stainless steel

Case-back: open

Water resistance: 200m

Strap: interchangeable green rubber strap

Reference: Q906863J - Boutique Edition

·  Redefining the modern sporty-elegant wristwatch, the Polaris perpetual calendar is powered by the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA

· A gradient-blue lacquer dial provides a visually rich and highly legible display of calendar indications and the moon phases in both hemispheres

· The 42mm case in steel or pink gold features a rapid-change attachment for the interchangeable straps

The historic Polaris name was reintroduced by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2018 with an entirely new line of watches that harness the Manufacture’s distinguished legacy of diving watches, and translate the spirit of the celebrated 1968 Memovox Polaris into contemporary form. Conceived for everyday adventures, with a combination of robust capabilities, practical functions and a distinctive aesthetic, the Polaris collection has redefined the modern sporty-elegant watch.

The Anomaly of Time – and a New Perpetual Calendar Calibre

The reason for the complexity of our calendar, with its leap years and different number of days in the months, lies in an anomaly between the way we measure civil time and the celestial phenomena on which those measurements are based.

Consequently, for watchmakers, a perpetual calendar is among the most challenging complications to master; a miniature mechanical computer, it must automatically adjust for months of different lengths and even for leap years. Unlike a simple date display, which needs to be adjusted at the end of every month that doesn’t have 31 days, a perpetual calendar will not need any manual correction until 2100 and, after that, only for the centenary years that are not leap years.

Ancient civilisations defined a year as the time it takes for the Sun to return to the same position in the sky, completing a full cycle of seasons. This solar (or “tropical”) year lasted approximately 365.2425 days – and led to the creation of the first calendars. However, a 365-day calendar year is almost six hours shorter than a solar year. The Julian Calendar, introduced in 46 BC by Julius Caesar, compensated by adding an extra day to February every fourth year. However, this was an over-compensation and in 1582, Pope Gregory XIII eliminated some leap years. According to the Gregorian Calendar, which we use to this day, any year that is divisible by 4, is a leap year; however, if it can also be divided by 100, it is not a leap year (for example 1900, 2100); nevertheless, those centenary years that can be divided by 400, are leap years (2000, 2400).

At the end of the 19th century, LeCoultre & Cie developed its first perpetual calendar pocket watches.

Due to the difficulty of creating such complex mechanisms on the tiny scale of a watch, the complication was still extremely rare when Jaeger-LeCoultre presented its first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1937. Since then, the Manufacture’s watchmakers have continuously improved the precision and quality of these remarkable mechanisms.

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA developed for the Polaris Perpetual Calendar has evolved from the well-proven in-house perpetual calendar movement that first appeared in 2013. It has been upgraded in line with the Manufacture’s latest technical innovations and significantly modified, with a retrograde display of Southern Hemisphere moon phases complementing the classical Northern Hemisphere moon-phase display, as well as an increase in power reserve to 70 hours. Supplementing the calendar indications, the rotating inner bezel – a Polaris signature – offers the practical function of measuring elapsed time.

A Visually Rich Display

Lacquered in a deep gradient-blue colour, the dial of the Polaris Perpetual Calendar takes its aesthetic cues from the Polaris Mariner Memovox. The graduated blue suggests the transition from day to night – a subtle reminder of the connection between celestial phenomena and time measurement.

With an emphasis on balance and legibility, the calendar indications are displayed in three sub-dials. The date, month and day indicators are at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock respectively, with the year displayed within the month indicator. A pleasing reminder that calendars had their origins in astronomical phenomena, the moon phases are displayed at 6 o’clock – with a retrograde display for the Southern Hemisphere framing a classical display for its Northern counterpart. Each of the four sub-dials is slightly recessed and finished in different textures, adding visual richness as the light plays across them.

At the centre of the dial, a small security zone indicator shows red between the hours of 20:00 and 04:00 to warn the user not to adjust the time or calendar indications. Skeletonised hands allow greater visibility of the indications and, in keeping with the contemporary Polaris design codes, bold trapezoid-shaped indexes balance the complexity and fine detail of the calendar displays. Luminescent coating on hands and indexes enhances legibility in all light conditions – an essential attribute for a sport watch.

The 42mm cases, in steel or pink gold, feature the key Polaris design codes: taut lines, fine bezels, glass-box crystals, and an eye-catching mix of brushed and polished surfaces. A transparent sapphire crystal case-back and an open-worked pink gold winding rotor reveal the fine decorative finishes on the movement.

Crucially for a timepiece designed for everyday living, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is easy to operate and adjust. The top crown rotates the inner bezel – both features being Polaris signatures – while the lower crown is for setting the time and winding the watch. Calendar settings are adjusted via a single pusher.

Thanks to a newly developed interchangeable strap system, which is operated by simply pressing on the pushers integrated into the attachment point between the lugs, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is adaptable for every adventure. Capitalising on its sporty character, the steel model is offered with both a three-link steel bracelet and textured rubber strap, while the elegance of the pink gold model is complemented by a blue rubber strap and, for a more formal look, an alligator strap with a folding buckle. Adding to the options for personalisation is a collection of calfskin straps in a variety of colours.

True to La Grande Maison’s guiding philosophy of marrying tradition and modernity, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar now brings one of horology’s great complications into the world of contemporary sporting elegance.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

POLARIS PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Case: steel or pink gold

Dimensions: 42mm x 11.97mm

Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA

Frequency: 28,800

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with moon phases in two hemispheres and red security zone, inner rotating bezel

Power reserve: 70 hours

Dial: gradient blue lacquer

Water resistance: 100m

References:

Q9088180 – steel version (interchangeable steel bracelet and rubber strap)

Q9082680 – pink gold version (interchangeable rubber strap and alligator leather strap)

MEMOVOX Reference 3161 sold for EUR 61’100 at Monaco Legend

MEMODATE POLARIS Reference E859 sold for CHF 40’000 at Phillips

Fall proved to be a fruitful season for Jaeger-LeCoultre treasures hunters as three extremely rare watches hit the auction block. Each one of the three watches embodies the spirit of innovation and aesthetics dear to the brand with a special twist, which makes them a treasure for collectors. Thanks to their unique features and provenance, they all contribute to enrich the brand’s heritage archives. Last but not least, all three pieces beat their highest estimate.

Reminiscing the roaring 60’s, while men conquer space and seas, gentlemen wish to work, travel and dive in style. Amidst the technological revolution, Jaeger-LeCoultre releases three unique watches, a Memovox reference 3161 made in platinum, a Memodate Polaris reference E859 and the Lucky 13 featuring the number 13 at every hour marker.

Memovox stands for the “voice of memory” and was known as the most reliable alarm watch at the time it was released. The model sold at Monaco Legend, the Memovox 3161, is considered as one of the most collectible piece ever produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre as well as extremely rare as it is made in platinum and features the iconic alarm complication. Moreover, the piece is accompanied by the extract of the archives from Jaeger-LeCoultre confirming its production in 1962.

Surfing on the trend of “complications with a practical purpose” typical of the 60’s, Jaeger-LeCoultre makes a diver’s version of the Memovox known as the Polaris is the United States and the Skin Diver Memovox in Europe. The reference E859 offers both a visual timer in the inner bezel and an auditory alarm which vibrates against the skin for ultimate safety. Whereas most Memovox dials do not bear any inscriptions apart from the brand name, the Polaris sold at Phillips is stamped Memodate, a particularity hardly ever seen.

From the deep sea to space, it was only a short step taken by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1962 with the Lucky 13. On Friday April 13^th, thirteen Senators gathered at the Anti-Superstition Society presented the Lucky 13 to Colonel John H. Glenn, the first American astronaut to orbit Earth. Featuring the number 13 at every hour marker on the dial, the watch commemorates his spacecraft capsule number 13 and is an ode to the rejection of the number 13 as unlucky. Produced and assembled in the United States, the Lucky 13 is a further testimony of the tight links between Jaeger-LeCoultre and the American market.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is very proud to actively participate in discovering and tracing its legendary watches provenance. The three pieces sold at auction this fall epitomize the brand’s avant-garde and refined style. They are part of the rich and complex history of our brand which is yet to be fully unveiled and definitely to be continued.

And because we are also fearless, we wish you all a happy Friday 13^th!

and the unique LUCKY 13 to be sold by Phillips New York in December 2019

Throughout its history, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been driven by the spirit of inventiveness, its expertise rewarded with more than 400 patents, and its watchmakers’ technical skills and creative imagination embodied in more than 1,200 different calibres.

As these two rare watches from the mid-20th Century demonstrate, every decade has brought fresh ideas and solutions, reflecting the spirit of the times. Among the many changes brought by the 1950s and 60s – represented by each of these watches – were, on one hand, tremendous advances in technology and aerospace, and on the other, the transformation of diving from a challenging pursuit to a widely practised leisure activity.

A rare LeCoultre Polaris Memodate (1967): to be sold at Phillips Geneva, November 2019:

In 1950, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced its first wristwatch featuring an alarm and called it the Memovox (‘voice of memory’). As the model become one of the most desirable and reliable on the market, the company introduced different variations, including a date display, a self-winding version and even an alarm designed to time parking meters.

In 1959, noting that diving had begun evolving from a specialist pursuit into a recreational sport enjoyed by thousands, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to adapt the Memovox to the sea. The company realised that it could offer both a visual timer (on the inner bezel) and an auditory alarm (which also caused vibration against the case) for ultimate diver safety.

To do so, Jaeger-LeCoultre created a patented, multi-layer case-back that optimised the alarm’s sound transmission under water. The outer case, with its 16 holes, allowed for the alarm tone to be heard and also felt on the wrist, while the inner case sealed and protected the movement.

Known in the United States as the Polaris, and in Europe as the ‘Montre de plongeur E859’, the reference E859 featured three crowns, each with the cross-hatch pattern characteristic of SuperCompressor watches. The first crown is for time setting, the second rotates the inner bezel for dive timing, and the third rotates the central disc to align the arrow with the alarm time.

The example being offered by Phillips was made in 1967 for the American market and stands out from other models thanks to its very rare dial markings. While most of the dials were stamped Memovox or bore no inscription other than the LeCoultre name, this watch is stamped Memodate.

Perhaps the most fascinating thing about the Memodate Polaris is its combination of two apparently opposite aspects of watchmaking: the tradition of delicate aural complications and the needs of a practical sporting timepiece. In this respect, it epitomises the open-minded spirit of inventiveness that has created such a rich patrimony at Jaeger-LeCoultre and continues to drive the Maison to this day.

Polaris “Memodate” Ref. E 859: An extremely rare and attractive stainless steel diver's wristwatch with alarm and date, produced in 1967.

The unique LeCoultre “Lucky 13” (1962): to be sold at Phillips New York, December 2019

The LeCoultre “Lucky 13” is a truly remarkable and unique watch presented by the Chicago Anti-Superstition Society alongside 13 U.S. Senators to an original Mercury Seven U.S. astronaut to commemorate his historic achievement of becoming the first American astronaut to orbit the Earth.

Featuring the number 13 at every hour marker, the watch celebrated the Friendship 7 spacecraft capsule used for the Mercury-Atlas 6 mission. Friendship 7 was the 13th space capsule produced by McDonnell Aircraft Corp, and the 13s on the dial were used to illustrate the society’s rejection of the number 13 as unlucky.

The ceremony, taking place on Friday, April 13th, 1962, was entered in the House Congressional Record on October 13th, 1962. The consignor intends to donate a portion of the proceeds of the sale of this watch to The John Glenn College of Public Affairs at The Ohio State University.

LeCoultre, “Lucky 13”: A unique, historically important and unusual gold-filled time-only wristwatch with centre seconds and “Lucky 13” dial, purchased by the consignor directly from the estate sale of Senator John H. Glenn, Jr.

As well as demonstrating Jaeger-LeCoultre’s technical expertise, the deep meaning and personal connections behind the story of these unique timepieces remind us that watches have always had social and emotional significance – which sometimes even overrides their practical purpose. 

A new watch with classic appeal

Drawing inspiration from the 1970 Polaris II, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date features a new hand-lacquered, blue double-gradient dial with sunrayed, grained and opaline finish, unique to this special model. The central disc and main dial now each incorporate a shimmering, color-change effect - from deep turquoise to a brilliant shade of royal blue. The blue rubber Clous de Paris strap, also unique to the model, is color-matched to the inner bezel, which, like the original Memovox Polaris and Polaris II, rotates for added functionality.

Keeping with the signature look of the Polaris collection, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date is instantly recognizable thanks to its elongated Arabic numerals, trapezoidal hour markers, and baton-style hands. These elements are each treated with Super-LumiNova™ to provide maximum legibility in low-light scenarios. For this application, the luminescent coating is vanilla-tinted, another nod to the famed Polaris watches of the 1960s and 1970s. Still, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date is a fundamentally modern creation. Hewn from stainless steel, the case measures 42mm in diameter and has two prominent crowns—one to adjust the time, the other to control the aforementioned rotating bezel. Incorporating brushed and hand-polished surfaces, the case’s graceful appearance belies its real-world sporting credentials, as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date is water resistant to 200 meters.

Inside, a self-winding mechanical movement delivers all the precision and craftsmanship one would expect from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The in-house Calibre 899A/1 faithfully keeps the seconds, minutes, hours, and date (displayed through a dedicated window at the three o’clock position) while offering a power reserve of 38 hours. It’s secured by a closed caseback, which has four special engravings, including a SCUBA diving insignia, the Jaeger-LeCoultre crest, and the phrase “1000 HOURS CONTROL”, denoting the assembled watch has undergone 1,000 hours of testing before leaving the Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. Finally, the words “Limited edition - One of 800” are inscribed near backing’s outer edge.

An evolving tradition

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date is the latest addition to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection, which is inspired by the iconic Memovox Polaris. This historic model was developed at the suggestion of the American market, and produced between 1965 and 1968. Today, the original Memovox remains synonymous with adventure and technical innovation, as it introduced a revolutionary amplified underwater alarm function for divers. The watch is also remembered for its distinct, sophisticated design code: a three-ring concentric dial layout, rotating inner bezel, and multi-crown case. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection pays homage by continuing to carry these visual elements, but has been entirely redesigned for the modern era, with shorter lugs, a slimmer bezel, ergonomic crowns, and a sapphire glass box crystal.

Technical characteristics:

Dimensions: 42 mm

Calibre: automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 899A/1

Functions: hours/minutes/seconds, date, rotating inner bezel

Power reserve: 38 hours

Case: stainless steel

Dial: special blue double-gradient, hand-lacquered, sunrayed, grained and opaline finish

Water resistance: 20 bar

Reference: Q9068681, limited to 800 pieces *(pre-launch in North America)

An iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre function, inspiration to World travellers

The Polaris Geographic WT (for "World Time") watch invites to discover the world through the 24 time zones instantly visible on a flange, which can be adjusted by the crown at 10 o’clock. For cities switching between standard and daylight saving time according to seasons, a white asterisk indicates the time with this one-hour difference.

An elegant and technical dial for the men of action

The dial’s design highlights the alliance of the two Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris colours: a blue subtly turning to black – a true signature for this collection. The smoky blue dial gives the Polaris Geographic WT watch the impression of great depth. It is decorated with three finishes: an opaline base for the city disk, a sunrayed sub-dial housing the calendar at 2 o'clock, the second time zone at 6 o'clock and the power reserve at 10 o'clock, and a grained finishing for the case back.

The day/night disk, clearly divided into two black and white sections, is instantly recognisable and indicates whether it is day or night in the local city – and therefore in the second time zone of choice. One slight, yet eye-catching detail on the disk is the small sun indicating the daytime hours – black numerals on a white background – and the little crescent moon for the night hours – white numerals on a black background.

The origins of an iconic timepiece

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris line is inspired by one of the Grande Maison's emblematic models: the 1968 Memovox Polaris watch, instantly recognisable by its three crowns. Suggested at the time, by the American market, the name Polaris echoed the bold and adventurous spirit of the 1960s. Synonymous with freedom and avant-garde, Polaris also heralds a revolution: a diving watch, fitted with an alarm function, featuring a patented triple case-back to amplify its sound underwater. Back in the days, this spirit was summarised with a slogan: "For the man of action". 1,714 Memovox Polaris II pieces were produced between 1965 and 1968. The 2018 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris model has been entirely redesigned: the lugs are shorter and the bezel is slimmer, giving the watch a more contemporary look while offering a clear readability. The polished and brushed finishing enhance the line's sporty spirit, and the Plexiglas was replaced by sapphire crystal.

A limited edition

The new Polaris Geographic WT completes the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection that was successfully unveiled in January, at the SIHH, in Geneva. This model is issued as a series of 250 pieces and it will exclusively be available at the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques.

Technical characteristics:

Size: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.54 mm
Calibre: 936A/1 – Automatic
Functions: H/M/S, 24-hour WT, second time zone, date, power reserve
Dial: grained, opaline
Water resistance: 100 m
Limitation: 250 pieces
Reference : Q904847J

“Memovox reminds, notifies, and wakes up.” This is how an advertisement from 1950 highlighted the merits of the watch that Jaeger-LeCoultre had just commercialized. During the years of economic recovery following the Second World War, the Memovox – the Voice of Memory – was designed to help businessmen remember their meetings through its chiming function.

With very sober and classic lines, this manually wound mechanical watch set itself apart with an additional crown to control the alarm function. This is the watch that the Swiss authorities of the Canton of Vaud, where the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture is located, selected as a gift for Charlie Chaplin in 1953.

Memovox Automatic

In 1956, Jaeger-LeCoultre enriched its Memovox line by developing the first automatic watch in the collection that incorporated an alarm function. This model has since inspired a long line of watches.

Three years after its creation, Jaeger-LeCoultre expanded the audience of its alarm watch. Once limited to businessmen, the Grande Maison saw that this watch with its automatic movement was ideal for adventurers and sportsmen of all types. For proof of this, look no further than an ad from the 1970s, showing the newly created Concorde with this dynamic slogan: “Memovox, for the man of action.”

Memovox Worldtime and Memovox Parking

To celebrate its 125^th anniversary, the Grande Maison created two new models in honor of the Manufacture’s jubilee. The Memovox Worldtime shows the time across the world in the blink of an eye. As for the Memovox Parking, it monitors the parking meter and informs you when the meter is out. Someone had to think of it!

Memovox Deep Sea

In 1959, Jaeger-LeCoultre revealed its Memovox Deep Sea, equipped with the automatic Caliber 815. It was the world’s first diving watch that was equipped with an alarm. On this watch, the alarm no longer served as a wake-up call or to provide a reminder of an important meeting; rather, its purpose was to ensure the safety of divers.

Memovox Polaris

A brief six years later, the Memovox Polaris appeared, fitted with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 825. The idea for the Memovox Polaris was born in 1962, during deep sea exploration. At the time, the world was fascinated with all kinds of exploration, whether it was space, the great depths of the sea, or the poles.

In 1963, a pre-series of 50 pieces was launched. The new case boasted a more generous 42 mm diameter, quite sizable for the era, so as to make it easier to read the time.

Another important development concerned the striking mechanism. The creators of the Memovox Polaris took great pains to find a system that would make it possible for the alarm to ring loudly under water. To prevent the chime from being muffled by the fact that the watch could be in contact with a diver's wetsuit, a triple case-back was developed. A first case-back, in bronze, made the alarm resonate. A water-resistant case-back protected the mechanism from contact with water. Finally, a third case-back with 16 openings made it possible for the sound of the alarm to be heard properly under water.

Water-resistant to 200 meters, this Memovox was resistant to both shocks and magnetism. It was also equipped with a rotating bezel that was no longer external but rather internal, controlled by a third crown.

In 1968, Jaeger-LeCoultre designed a new, more sporty dial for this watch. Its numerals were transferred and coated with Tritium®, just like the hour makers, redesigned in a trapezoid shape, and the small triangle indicating the time of the alarm. The hands were baton-shaped and also covered with luminescent material.

In 2018, fifty years on, this design has inspired the artisans of the Grande Maison in the creation of a new collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris.

Memovox Polaris II

In 1971, a new, more advanced version appeared. Called the Memovox Polaris II, it boasted all the latest technological advances. Its Caliber 916 is part of the generation of high-frequency automatic movements developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre starting in 1970. With its balance wheel beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the watch reached a new standard of precision. The winding system was also innovative, with a weight capable of turning freely in either direction around its axis to wind the barrel. The caliber proved so effective that it inspired the current Caliber 956 that powers the Master Compressor Memovox.

Master Control Memovox and Master Grande Memovox

In 1998, the Master Control Memovox was introduced. Driven by Caliber 914, this watch boasted performance and reliability certified by one thousand hours of testing.

Two years later came the Master Grande Memovox Caliber 909-440/2, equipped with a perpetual calendar, moon phase display, and a hanging gong replacing the customary resonance case-back of the classic Memovox models.

Master Compressor Memovox

The year 2002 was highlighted by the appearance of the Master Compressor Memovox, representing a crowning achievement in the ongoing success story of the Memovox movement.

Master Compressor Memovox

In tribute to the impressive career of the Memovox Polaris, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented two Memovox Tribute to Polaris limited series in 2008: the “1965” and the “1968” models.

While both these Memovox Tribute to Polaris watches remained totally loyal to the spirit and the aesthetic of their forerunners, they were endowed with the latest Jaeger-LeCoultre technical innovations in order to meet modern standards in terms of precision, sturdiness and reliability. Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 956 therefore houses a striking mechanism composed of a gong suspended from the case-back. Moreover, its oscillating weight is equipped with ceramic ball bearings requiring no lubrication and no maintenance.

The case is fitted with a water-resistant case-back maintaining its role as a resonance chamber, and an external case-back featuring 16 round openings in keeping with the original aesthetic.

Master Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea

In 1959, Jaeger-LeCoultre had presented its very first underwater watch equipped with an alarm, the Memovox Deep Sea – of which there were two versions: one intended for European divers, and the other for their American counterparts. In 2011, the Manufacture paid tribute to this historical model with a limited series re-edition. As with the original, it comes in European and US versions. Equipped with a 40.5 mm diameter steel case and powered by automatic Memovox Caliber 956, the European version (in a series of 959 pieces) is distinguished by its black dial, while the American version (in a series of 359 pieces) features a black/gray dial bearing the “LeCoultre” signature.

Master Memovox Boutique Edition

In 2016, to celebrate the 60th anniversary of its alarm watch with an automatic movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre marked the occasion with an exclusive limited edition model available only in its boutiques. Drawing inspiration from the 1970s Memovox “Snowdrop” model, this blue, vintage-style watch is presented with a very contemporary case and finishes while housing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 956.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox

In 2018, the Grande Maison is unveiling its new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris line, the design of which was inspired by the Memovox Polaris from 1968.

In this collection, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox adopts the look and alarm function of the original model, with a redesigned case. It celebrates the 50th anniversary of the 1968 model and is available in a limited series of 1,000 pieces, sure to delight lovers of exclusive objects imbued with history.

From 1950 to today, very few watch movements can boast such longevity, thanks to its initial reliability and successive improvements. In 2018, over sixty years after it first appeared, the Memovox continues to ring with the times.