Having fully mastered sidereal time – the measurement used by astronomers to track the apparent movement of the constellations across the night sky – our watchmakers are able to create one-of-a-kind calibres that reproduce these astronomical events on the wrist, bringing complications together in fascinating new ways. Originally created in 2010, Calibre 945 unites a sky chart with a celestial vault, a zodiacal calendar and a minute repeater, and is further elevated by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Cosmotourbillon – a celestial flying tourbillon.

·  The new “Atomium” and “Galaxia” dials showcase the skills of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® atelier, introducing grisaille enamel to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s repertoire of rare artistic crafts for the first time

· A Cosmotourbillon makes a complete circuit of the dial in one sidereal day, and a Northern Hemisphere sky vault tracks the positions of the constellations in real time, as seen from the Vallée de Joux

· The exquisite chimes of a minute repeater complement the celestial timekeeping

A Heavenly Display

The essence of the watch is the way in which it interprets astronomical timekeeping for the wrist, using the dial to display our link to the cosmos on both a literal and philosophical level – unlike a classical calendar dial, in which we infer that link from the numerical readings.

Highlighting the astronomical aspect of time measurement, our watchmakers developed a mechanism able to display the passing of sidereal time, based on the stars. Set at the centre of the dial, the celestial vault maps the Northern Hemisphere night sky as seen from the 46th parallel – the latitude of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s home in the Vallée de Joux – tracking the position of the constellations in real time.

Enhancing this celestial display, the Cosmotourbillon is elevated beyond its purely technical function as a regulating mechanism, measuring the passing of time as it makes a complete, anti-clockwise circuit of the dial in one sidereal day. With a duration of precisely 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4.1 seconds, a sidereal day is defined by Earth’s rotation measured in relation to more distant fixed stars, whereas the 24-hour solar day – our civil time – is measured by Earth's orbit around the Sun.

A golden sun-shaped pointer set at the edge of the dial indicates the month of the zodiacal calendar and solar time on a 24-hour scale, which is necessary for setting the watch. The Dauphine-shaped hands indicate the minutes and 12-hour cycles of civil time, which are displayed on two concentric rings on the flange of the dial.

Showcasing the Métiers Rares®

An exceptional movement merits an exceptional habillage and the new Master Hybris Artistica Galaxia and Master Hybris Artistica Atomium bring fresh artistic expression to this marriage of complications. Hand-decorated by the artisans in the Métiers Rares® atelier of the Manufacture, the multiple-level dial amplifies the beauty of the celestial theme while also showcasing the Cosmotourbillon.

For the star map, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces grisaille enamel to its repertoire for the first time. A painterly technique that originated in 16th-century France, grisaille enamel is unique in creating a chiaroscuro effect, with an illusion of three-dimensionality created by half-tones and shading. First, the enameller must perfect the dark background – traditionally blue or black – building the depth and intensity of colour by applying multiple layers, each of which requires firing. Then, using a super-fine brush, the image is added in white enamel, layer by painstaking layer, again with a firing after each stage. Because thicker enamel creates lighter areas, its application must be controlled with the utmost skill to achieve the ethereal beauty and apparent depth that make grisaille so beguiling. Thanks to this rarefied technique, the dials of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 depict with utmost artistry the sky that we see above us at night.

In a subtle allusion to the way the night sky seems to form a dome above us when we look at the stars, the dials are constructed on multiple levels, dominated by a domed structure that also wraps around the Cosmotourbillon. Visible around the edge of the dome and beneath the tourbillon, the deepest level of the dial is a midnight blue or black disc (for the white gold and pink gold cases, respectively) decorated with translucent lacquer over opaline, with transferred white inscriptions for the names of the months, and the tourbillon seconds.

The dome is formed of two sections. On the black dial of the “Galaxia”, both the outer section of the dome and the inner celestial disc are made of gold, with grisaille enamel depicting the planets, and the star map and names of the constellations transferred over the enamel. The “Atomium” takes its name from the delicate filigree of silvered metal that forms the outer section of the dome, its shape echoing the lines that link the stars to form constellations. Framed within this, on the domed celestial disc, midnight-blue grisaille enamel and a transferred star map amplify the visual connection to the cosmos.

The dials of the “Galaxia” and “Atomium” are encircled by three concentric rings that carry the indices for solar time. The inner ring, for 24 hours, and outer ring, displaying minutes, are finished in opaline; between them, the hour ring is decorated with enamel over a hand-guilloché base, with applied indexes.

The Master Grande Tradition case is a perfect complement to the artistic dials and mechanical sophistication of these sumptuous pieces. Comprising more than 80 parts, its convex bezel is complemented by broad bevels on the lugs; the hollowed-out sides of the lugs add dynamic tension, while the repeater slide is tapered to harmonise with the curving case sides. Different surfaces are microblasted, polished and satin-brushed to maximise the play of light and emphasise the details.

When the Constellations Chime

This exceptional timepiece also takes Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in chiming watches to new heights by uniting the astronomical complications with a minute repeater – considered to be the most challenging and rewarding of all horological complications for a watchmaker to master. The technical difficulty of creating one lies in the complexity of the mechanism needed to transcribe the precise time shown by the hands into a series of perfectly programmed strikes, with different sounds for hours, quarters and minutes. The artistic challenge is that, this being a miniaturised musical instrument, the chimes must be pure, harmonious and clearly audible. At Jaeger-LeCoultre, this continuing quest for the ideal sound has produced several patented innovations, including crystal gongs, trebuchet hammers and a silent governor. In the minute repeater mechanism of Calibre 945, these inventions contribute a special magic that complements the romance of celestial timekeeping.

In every sense, the new Hybris Artistica interpretations of Calibre 945 are testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s enduring expertise in astronomical watches, its dedication to maintaining the fine balance between innovation and tradition, and its devoted quest for a perfect synthesis of art and mechanics.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBRE 945 GALAXIA

MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBRE 945 ATOMIUM

Case: pink gold or white gold with micro-blasted, satin and polished finishes; sapphire case-back

Dimensions: 45mm x 16.05mm

Calibre: manual mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 945

Frequency: 28,800

Functions: hours/minutes, months, 24-hour indication; Cosmotourbillon indicating sidereal time; celestial disc with star chart indicating the constellations in the northern hemisphere in real time; minute repeater, zodiacal calendar

Power reserve: 40 hours

Dial: black dial with grisaille enamel (in pink gold case) or blue dial with silvered laser-welded structure (in white gold case)

Water resistance: 5 bar

Strap: alligator leather

References:

Q5262470 – pink gold version – Limited edition of 5 pieces

Q5263481 – white gold version – Limited edition of 5 pieces

Hybris Artistica mystérieuse is no exception to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s rule of creative and mechanical perfection. At the heart of these remarkable timepieces beats the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 941, entirely designed and hand-assembled within the walls of the Manufacture. In its dazzling case, this made-to-measure movement forms the rhythmic backdrop for a new orbital flying tourbillon, a new oscillating weight, and a new carriage of a novel shape, as well as many other delights to be unveiled at the 2017 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Hybris Artistica mystérieuse : Ladies’ timepieces

A precious design that holds the mystery of time

An ode to eternal femininity, Hybris Artistica mystérieuse shares all the subtle virtues of women’s beauty, mystery, and grace. This magical work of art alternately conceals and reveals its treasures in an exquisite demonstration of how fine watchmaking can make the aesthetic codes of Haute Couture its own: a white gold case encrusted with snow-set diamonds; a mother-of-pearl dial covered in gold leaf, with embedded gemstones; a sapphire or ruby devoted to indicating the minutes.

The fascination of this new design is heightened by the absence of any hands. Who can say whether it is a watch, a jewel, or a bracelet? Assuredly it is an objet d’art, where an orbital flying tourbillon decorated in gilded ivy leaves takes 60 seconds to pivot on itself and 12 hours to rotate around the dial, all the while giving an accurate indication of the hour. The design of the tourbillon carriage has been revisited to form a graceful five-pointed star shape. The eye is instantly charmed and wants nothing more than to linger on this animated sphere.

On the flange around the dial, the artisan’s hand has left its equally visible imprint. A delightfully geometrical pattern made up of tiny ivy leaves in mother-of-pearl appears in transparency like a leitmotif. This refined trail forms the backdrop for a perfectly round precious stone – a sapphire or a ruby, depending on the model – which turns like a point of light to indicate the minutes.

An exquisite demonstration of the Rare Handcrafts “Métiers Rares” creative genius

The ivy leaf is crafted with remarkable finesse in depictions from several angles, forming a stunningly beautiful tableau. To further enhance the aesthetic impact, the Manufacture’s artisans have employed snow-setting, a technique that originated with Jaeger-LeCoultre. This technique allows the gem setter to freely choose the cut and positioning of individual diamonds of different diameters, and then juxtapose them in such a way as to entirely cloak the metal underneath. Apart from how exceptionally this type of setting scintillates with reflections of light – like the whirl of snowflakes hinted at in its name – it also feels astonishing under your fingertips.

As your hand turns the case over, a new surprise can be guessed at in the magnificent weight of pink gold. Its entirely hand-engraved full disc features a skeletonised finish that reproduces the hammered ivy leaf design. Skeletonisation is reserved for one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces, as this technique allows the beauty of the movement and parts to be stylised by bringing to life a sumptuous embroidery of metal.

Hybris Artistica mystérieuse : men’s timepieces

An unforgettable impression blending art and architecture

In a play of light and shadow, an embroidery of skeletonised mother-of-pearl draws a filigreed pattern of symmetrical arabesques across the blue aventurine dial. This geometrical tableau of perfect proportions sweeps from the flying tourbillon that opens onto the dial with its hand-guillochéd background, swelling to a crescendo in the flange with its distinct hour-markers. A 42-millimetre pink gold case envelops all this artistry. The absence of hands meant the dial could be lifted up a few millimetres in such a way as to reveal the intricate workmanship that brought it to life. From this close, even the tiniest details take on a whole new dimension. An incredible sense of depth is achieved by the semi-precious aventurine scattered with sparkling glints. Unrivalled in their refinement, they scintillate like constellations of stars on the lugs, case-band, and oscillating weight.

Held in a worthy vessel, time suspends its flight

Another impressive feat enhances its mechanical performance: this watch boasts an orbital flying tourbillon, considered one of the most prestigious complications. Designed with no need for a bridge, the tourbillon is free to pursue its perfectly orchestrated trajectory under the eye-catching pointed arch-shaped carriage set above it. The hour can be read from its position on the dial, while a discreet arrow indicates the minutes on the flange. The name of this watch without hands is indeed well chosen. Although it seems the mystery of time no longer holds any secrets for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s master watchmakers, it clearly never ceases to inspire them.

An original design allied with exceptionally crafted decoration

Notice that the mother-of-pearl applied on the dial is not the only skeletonised element. The oscillating weight was also decorated using this technique, so emblematic of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rare Handcrafts “Métiers Rares”. Skeletonisation is a traditional craft, executed by hand to a precision of a hundredth of a millimetre. The engraver uses specific tools to work on each part of the movement individually, paring back the material as much as possible without disrupting the way it functions. Following a long series of delicate operations (filing down, chamfering, polishing, chiselling, assembling) the movement is transformed into enchantingly patterned lacework.

The Hybris Mechanica^™ Collection

A reference in the realm of grand complications

Inspired by a spirit of invention and a desire to constantly push back the boundaries of the watchmaking art, the Hybris Mechanica™ collection was unveiled in 2003 with the exceptional Atmos Mystérieuse clock and its constant force mechanism. Since this date, a succession of unquestionable masterpieces has ensued, such as the Master Gyrotourbillon 1, a grand complication watch with a multi-axis tourbillon, the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque, which brings together no fewer than 18 complications over three faces, the Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie with some 1,400 components – one of Jaeger-LeCoultre's most sophisticated watches – and the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, a prime example of multiple innovations within an extremely thin case.

Under the highly evocative name of Hybris Mechanica™, the collection now encompasses 13 unique pieces or very limited editions that conceal an impressive number of watch complications. Amongst other innovations, they give pride of place to the mechanical measurement of time, the mathematical approach to eternity, and the musical indication of the hours. The Manufacture's artisans hold a deep passion for these pieces, ever ready to take on the wildest technical and artistic challenges once more in their name.

The Hybris Artistica^™ Collection

A rare art

The sublime Hybris Artistica™ collection follows on from this compendium of grand complication watches. The two collections are not only united by the common name of Hybris; both constitute an incredibly successful showcase of remarkable watchmaking expertise, both in terms of mechanical content and aesthetics.

Revealed at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in 2014, the first pieces in the Hybris Artistica™ collection are a bold expression of the winning combination of the Grande Maison's many talents in the form of its Rare Handcrafts “Métiers Rares”. True to its past of continuous invention, for the very first time Jaeger-LeCoultre combined ancestral techniques – such as guilloché work, enamelling, and engraving – with ingenious mechanical movements featuring particularly sophisticated complications. This is more than a mere combination; this is a fusion, an alchemy – an exceptional blend of design, mechanical ingenuity, and artistic talent. The collection's many jewels include a number of emblematic pieces, such as the Duomètre Sphérotourbillon, featuring the famous "Dual-Wing" concept, and the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3, with its richly decorated ruthenium dial and tantalum case. The Rendez-Vous Tourbillon showcases the endless dance of its flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock thanks to its diamond setting, while the Grande Reverso Tourbillon Squelette reveals a sculptural embroidery in the form of its entirely skeletonised mechanism.

These 12 exceptional pieces are now joined by two new, remarkable models, both in terms of their original designs and masterly mechanisms. Available for men and women, the Hybris Artistica Mystérieuse is destined to reveal the mystery of time in a sublime yet unexpected fashion within a breathtakingly beautiful exterior. These pure masterpieces have taken shape in the boundless imaginations of the Jaeger-LeCoultre master-watchmakers and artisans, passionately formed in their hands and by their fingers in an undying quest for perfection.