"We are delighted to welcome our Reverso exhibition to the heart of the Vallée de Joux, bringing back to life this unforgettable journey of watchmaking and Art Deco design. Over the years, the Reverso has become an iconic object, a symbol of style and elegance. I hope this passage through time will become an unforgettable experience for all who visit it." says Catherine Rénier, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Created in 1931, the Reverso is a design of rare longevity – a legend born from the challenge to create a wristwatch that could withstand the rough and tumble of the polo field. Ingenious in conception and perfect in execution, the Reverso quickly transcended its original purpose and was adopted by tastemakers from all walks of life. Deftly synthesising form and function with its unique reversible case and pure Art Deco lines, it has become one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches.

Reverso Stories explores the creative and cultural universe of this exceptional design through four themes, leading visitors on a journey through 90 years of timeless modernity. These four ‘Stories’ are supplemented by an in-depth exploration of how La Grande Maison has epitomised the spirit of the Vallée de Joux for 190 years, fuelled by boundless creativity and a relentless pursuit of innovation married to deep respect for the traditional values of high watchmaking.

The Reverso: A Timeless Story in Four Chapters

The Story of an Icon retells the tale of the Reverso’s origins through rarely seen archive materials and heritage documents from the Jaeger-LeCoultre collection, and a selection of milestone Reverso watches. A specially commissioned film transports the viewer inside the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, tracing the creation of a Reverso through the words of the artisans and watchmakers themselves.

The Story of Style & Design examines the Art Deco roots of the Reverso. Visitors will discover how, following the principles of Art Deco design, the distinctive rectangular form of the watch was dictated by the original concept – that the case should flip over. An artfully curated selection of timepieces traces the stylistic changes through which the Reverso has gained the status of a design icon.

The Story of Innovation explores how the Reverso embodies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eternally inventive quest for technical advancement. Beginning with the revolutionary idea of a case that could be flipped over, to the ingenious design by Rene-Alfred Chauvot, patented in 1931, the story traces the introduction of high-watchmaking complications, ground-breaking mechanical inventions and the use of new materials.

The Story of Craftsmanship, the exhibition’s finale, celebrates the skills of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s enamellers, gem-setters, engravers and guillochage masters, revealing how they have unleashed the full potential of the Reverso as a canvas for artistic expression and personalised messages. A special selection of timepieces spanning nine decades provides special insight into how the Reverso has itself been telling the stories of its owners –and will continue to do so for many years to come.

Enriching the Experience with Atelier d’Antoine

To deepen their experience of the exhibition, visitors are welcome to enrol in Atelier d’Antoine, the programme of educational workshops, hands-on watchmaking experience and Manufacture visits – an unparalleled opportunity to immerse themselves in the world of fine watchmaking. Presented by Jaeger-LeCoultre in the heart of its Manufacture, the Discovery Workshops, Masterclasses and guided visits will focus on the Reverso, presenting a unique opportunity to discover the inside story of a true icon of watchmaking. Participation in the Atelier d’Antoine is by reservation only.

‘Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931’ Exhibition

Espace Horloger, Grande-Rue 2, CH-1347 Le Sentier

Open to the public from July 1 to September 3, from 10am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday (closed on Mondays). Free of charge. 

More information on espacehorloger.ch 

Atelier d’Antoine

Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rue de la Golisse 8, CH-1347 Le Sentier

Online booking mandatory on online-booking.jaeger-lecoultre.com

There could be no better setting in which to showcase the time-honoured skills of La Grande Maison’s Métiers Rares workshops: presenting the priceless human skills behind the creation of rare objects, Homo Faber brings together 15 exhibitions that celebrate the savoir-faire of exceptional master artisans from all over Europe. This year, reaffirming the shared values of craftsmanship that transcend cultures and borders, Homo Faber features 12 Japanese Living National Treasures as guests of honour.

In homage to this connection, La Grande Maison has chosen to depict the sakura or cherry blossom on the new Atmos Régulateur. An emblem of Japan, cherry blossom has become a universal metaphor for Spring, a symbol of renewal and a precious reminder of the fleeting nature of life, and of time itself. In keeping with this year’s Stellar Odyssey theme, the Atmos movement features a moon-phase display – the best-known and perhaps most beloved celestial complication of all.

Noble in presence and delicate in detail, the Atmos Régulateur ‘Cherry Blossom’ is a one-of-a-kind work of art, showcasing the clock’s mechanism within a transparent glass cabinet set between two dramatic panels of black Grand Feu enamel.

A branch of cherry blossom, hand-painted in enamel, extends seamlessly from one side, across the dial ring, to the opposite panel. Petals scatter in the air around it, as if shaken free by a passing breeze.

With the enamelling alone requiring 200 hours of dedicated work by the master artisans in the Métiers Rares® atelier of Jaeger-LeCoultre, this is the largest enamelled piece ever undertaken at La Grande Maison. While the enamellers have thoroughly mastered the techniques of enamelling on watch cases and dials, the large scale of this piece presented an entirely different set of challenges. Rising to it, the artisans of the atelier worked closely together, spending countless hours on preliminary research, exchanging ideas, experimenting and making trials before the enamelling could begin in earnest. Materials and techniques were examined and reconsidered – and a new kiln specified, to accommodate such large pieces.

For the panels – measuring 196mm by 105.2mm – copper was found to be more suitable than the gold used for enamelling on watches. For such large surfaces, the enamellers had to perfect the ‘dry enamelling’ technique of sifting powdered pigment onto the copper plates (rather like dusting the top of a cake with icing sugar), repeating the process again and again, to achieve the desired depth and uniformity of black. After every layer, the panels had to be fired, then cooled and perfectly flattened – with every stage carrying the risk of bubbling, cracking or dust specks, any of which would ruin the work.

For the two dial rings, it was determined that silver was the best material – despite its being a soft metal and therefore less resistant to firing at the high temperatures required for grand feu enamel. Normally, to prevent deformation, the back of an object is prepared with ‘contre-email’, but in this case it was impossible since the dial is visible from behind. The rings were hollowed out to form a trough into which the enamel was applied. Then, as for the panels, came the challenge of multiple firings.

Finally, when the black enamel backgrounds were completed to perfection, the work of the miniature-painter could begin – bringing with it the almost contradictory needs for artistic flair and absolute precision. As with the black enamel, this work was done in a series of layers, each needing to be fired, with every firing again carrying the risk of damaging everything that had been done before. To succeed in such work is testament to an extraordinary level of finesse, and a degree of mastery that can be achieved only with countless years of experience.

Invented in 1928, with a unique mechanism that is driven by tiny changes in air temperature, the Atmos is an extraordinary timepiece and an objet d’art in equal measure. Since the 1970s the Manufacture has invited a series of leading designers and proponents of the artistic crafts to reinterpret this mechanical prodigy. With a clear sense of artistic intention, this new interpretation, the Atmos Régulateur ‘Cherry Blossom’, amplifies the distinctive identity of the clock with balanced proportions and visual harmony allied to fine artistry.

The movement of this exceptional piece, conceived and entirely produced within La Grande Maison, is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 582, which is distinguished by its regulator display. With an architecture defined by circles within circles, the large minutes ring and smaller hours ring are complemented by a monthly calendar and moon-phase display, as well as by the shape of the annular balance that slowly oscillates beneath the displays. The moon-phase indication is so precise that it will take 3,821 years to diverge by just one day from astronomical reality.

As a one-of-a-kind work of art, the Atmos Régulateur ‘Cherry Blossom’ is testament not only to La Grande Maison’s exceptional depth of savoir-faire but also to its commitment to preserving rare skills within the Manufacture, supporting and encouraging the expansion of those skills, and celebrating human creativity.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

ATMOS RÉGULATEUR ‘CHERRY BLOSSOM’

Dimensions overall: 468 mm x 183 mm x 255 mm

Dimensions of panels: 196 mm x 105.2 mm

Calibre: Mechanical, perpetual Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 582

Functions: regulator type display of hours and minutes; 24-hour indication; month indication; perpetual moon-phase indication (one-day discrepancy every 3,861 years)

Dial: Grand Feu Enamel

Panels: Grand Feu Enamel

Cabinet: glass

Reference: Q5604302

Homo Faber Event is open to the public from 10 April to 1 May 2022, at Fondazione Giorgio Cini on the island of S.Giorgio Maggiore, Venice. Information and tickets are available at homofaber.com

The design of the Reverso had unexpected benefit. While its blank metal flip side had begun as a purely functional solution to avoid damage to the dial, it was an ideal surface for personalisation with monograms, emblems or personal messages using lacquer, engraving or enamel. The owner can keep this decoration as a personal, hidden treasure or flip the case over so that its back becomes the front.

Among the examples from the 1930s in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s museum collection is a Reverso decorated with the emblem of the British Racing Drivers Club, a piece with the Eton College coat of arms, and a 1935 Reverso that commemorates the record-setting flight from Mexico City to New York by the aviator, Amelia Earhart. In India, the Maharajah of Karputala commissioned 50 Reverso watches, with a miniature-painted portrait of his wife reproduced on the caseback in enamel. Although these pieces are all believed lost, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a similar Reverso in its collection, dating from 1936, with a portrait of another Indian beauty, thought to be Kanchan Prabha Devi, Maharani of Tripura State.

From the mid-20th century onwards, as changing tastes rejected ornamentation in all areas of design, the traditional artistic crafts such as enamelling, miniature painting and guillochage began to disappear – the skills dying out along with the older generation of artisans. Fortunately, the revival of mechanical watchmaking in the 1990s, sparked a renewed interest in these crafts before they were lost forever.

In 1996, the Maison released its first timepieces to be decorated with grand feu enamel in modern times. Crafted by Miklos Merczel, a former watchmaker at Jaeger-leCoultre who established the Manufacture’s in-house enamelling studio, the set of four Reverso watches each bore a perfectly reproduced miniature of a work by the Art Nouveau master, Alphonse Mucha. Enamelling became a signature of the Reverso collection and, to this day, Jaeger-LeCoultre remains one of the very few Manufactures to have its own in-house enamelling atelier.

The Manufacture’s enamellers were joined by engravers, gem-setters and guillochage masters – all of them eventually brought together in one vast studio in 2016, with the establishment of the Atelier des Métiers Rares®. As the full potential of the Reverso as a canvas for artistic expression became apparent, these artists created increasingly elaborate and spectacular embellishments. High Jewellery models have featured invisibly set baguette diamonds over the entire case; the cordonnet bracelet has been reinterpreted entirely in diamonds; and casebacks have been transformed into glittering expanses of snow-set diamonds. As the most recent releases of artistic Reverso models suggest, the creative possibilities have almost no limits.