Jaeger-LeCoultre presents three magnificent new High Jewellery watches that unite exceptional gem-setting with the signature Calibre 101. Each of them an exuberant and distinctive expression of femininity, the new timepieces reaffirm the boundless creative scope offered by the alliance between this unique watch mechanism and high jewellery. 

An entirely new design, the 101 Secrets is set with almost 27 carats of diamonds. The most precious Calibre 101 timepiece created by Jaeger-LeCoultre to date, the rivière-style bracelet features a new secret mechanism that enables the wearer to reveal the dial only when she wishes.

The 101 Bangle, first presented in 2020, has been reinterpreted in two one-of-a-kind pieces – one in pink gold with a red lacquer dial complemented by diamonds; and one in white gold with a snow-white lacquer dial complemented by sapphires and diamonds.

Originally conceived and developed for jewellery watches and introduced in 1929 by La Grande Maison, Calibre 101 revolutionised feminine watchmaking – its minuscule size and baguette shape offering new realms of aesthetic freedom to designers. Weighing barely one gram, the tiny, hand-wound calibre remains the smallest mechanical movement in the world to this day. It is also one of the world’s oldest movements to have remained in continuous production by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

101 Secrets – A New Design with a Hint of Art Deco Spirit

Defined by four rows of diamonds – two outer rows of claw-set diamonds set on either side of a double row of grain-set diamonds – the 101 Secrets forms a river of light and sparkle that flows around the wrist, giving no hint of the timepiece concealed within it.

The tradition of secret watches dates back to the 19^th-century, when pocket watches (then worn by both men and women) had cases with hinged covers – often richly decorated with enamel and gemstones – that closed over the dial, protecting the glass from scratches. As women began to wear wristwatches early in the 20^th century, the notion held that a lady did not need to have the time constantly on display. Today, secret watches present a creative playground where jewellery and watch design are united to create pieces of exceptional beauty and genuine practical value.

The plural form of secrets in the name of this precious new timepiece refers to two elements of hidden magic. The first secret is the fact that this is a timepiece as well as a piece of jewellery: the dial remains hidden until the wearer wishes to see the time.  The second secret is a new mechanism concealed within the rows of diamonds – a feat of micro-mechanics so tiny that it remains almost invisible, its position known only to the woman wearing the watch. When she presses gently on the hidden ‘button’, a small section of the bracelet pops open like the pages of a book, revealing the time on a glowing mother-of-pearl dial. When she releases the button, the dial disappears and the bracelet once again becomes an endlessly flowing river of diamonds.

For the two outer rows of diamonds, the gem-setters chose the claw setting – a traditional technique that holds the stones above the surface of the gold, allowing light to pass through them from every angle and maximising their sparkle. The larger diamonds are almost imperceptibly graduated in size and set in perfect symmetry – further testament to the gem-setters’ skill. The grain-setting of the inner rows of diamonds provide a visual anchor for the larger stones and, together with the diamonds framing the dial – visible when the watch is open – emphasise the Art Deco-inspired geometry of the design. Bringing even more light into the piece, the profile of the bracelet is also set with diamonds.

With a total of 1,024 diamonds (for 26.75 carats), the 101 Secrets represents a total of 182 hours of meticulous gem-setting, all undertaken in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s own Metier Rares™ workshop.

101 Bangle – Introducing Colour in Two One-of-a-Kind Reinterpretations

For the design of the 101 Bangle, first presented in 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers took inspiration from the sweeping curves and strong lines of Art Deco and 20th-Century Modernism. Set with almost 1,000 precious stones, the bracelet needs no clasp to hold it securely on the wrist; thanks to an ingenious hidden lock it can be opened and closed with a simple gesture.

For 2023, the Maison introduces colour to the 101 Bangle, presenting two new interpretations – each a one-of-a-kind piece.

On a pink gold bracelet, a delicate red lacquer dial creates a bold contrast to the white diamonds and complements the warm tone of the precious metal. To heighten the three-dimensional effect of the design, the 996 diamonds (19.7 carats) are graduated in size and the gem-setters have employed both the griffe- and grain-setting techniques to maximise the play of light on the gemstones. Enhancing the sparkle even further, the profile of the bracelet is also set with diamonds.

On a white gold bracelet – the first time that white gold has been used for the 101 Bangle – the sweeping curves of the design are enhanced by a row of brilliant-cut sapphires, graduated in size and wrapping all the way around the wrist. The blue of the stones is amplified by a row of sapphires set into the profile of the bracelet and enhanced by the cool tones of white diamonds, white gold and a snow-white lacquer dial. With 347 sapphires (10.29 cts) and 645 diamonds (10.99 cts), this interpretation of the 101 Bangle represents a total of 21.28 carats of precious stones.

A Rich Heritage of Creativity and Technical Prowess

Imbued with the founder’s pioneering spirit, La Grande Maison began to develop watches for women in its early years, immediately understanding the tremendous aesthetic and technical potential of timepieces that could also be worn as jewels and accessories. Over the decades since then, as social evolution has changed not only fashion and style but also the way femininity itself is defined, the Manufacture has developed watches specifically for women that marry technical sophistication with creative design and aesthetic beauty in countless different ways.

As watchmakers sought to prove that precision and miniaturisation were not mutually exclusive, the Maison developed Calibre 101 in 1929. Half a century before the advent of computer-aided design and production technology, it was a remarkable feat of miniaturisation and became recognized as the world’s smallest mechanical movement. Over the decades, the mechanism has benefited from technical improvements in both materials and machining but its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged. The present generation of Calibre 101 has 98 components (compared with the original 78), measures 14 mm x 4.8 mm, with a thickness of 3.4 mm (a volume of 0.2 cm3) and weighs barely one gram.

Due to the mechanism’s tiny scale, each of the components must be custom-produced and adjusted – in effect, making every Calibre 101 one-of-a-kind. Only a handful of watchmakers at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture have ever mastered the skills necessary to produce and assemble movements at such a microscopic scale. Consequently, only a few dozen examples can be produced each year.

Continuing the story of the remarkable Calibre 101, the three new timepieces showcase Jaeger-LeCoultre’s exceptional expertise in miniature watchmaking as well as the skills of the Maison’s gem-setters. With designers, watchmakers and jewellers all working together under one roof at the Manufacture, they represent a singular marriage of technical sophistication, creative design and aesthetic beauty.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

101 SECRETS

Material: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)

Case Dimensions: 29.07 x 12.22 mm

Wrist size: 160 mm

Thickness: 9.88 mm

Calibre: Manually-wound Calibre 101

Functions: Hours, minutes

Power Reserve: 33 hours

Dial: Mother of pearl

Carats: 1,024 diamonds ~26.75 carats

Reference: Q2872201

Production: Made to Order

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

101 BANGLE (Pink Gold)

Case: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)

Case Dimensions: 18.35 x 5.98 mm

Wrist size: 160 mm

Thickness: 5.97 mm

Calibre: Manually-wound Calibre 101

Functions: Hours, minutes

Power Reserve: 33 hours

Dial: Red lacquer

Carats: 996 diamonds ~19.7 carats

Reference: Q2892260

Production: Unique piece

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

101 BANGLE (White Gold)

Material: White gold (18 carats)

Case Dimensions: 18.35 x 5.98 mm

Wrist size: 160 mm

Thickness: 5.47 mm

Calibre: Manually-wound Calibre 101

Functions: Hours, minutes

Power Reserve: 33 hours

Dial: White lacquer

Carats: 347 Sapphires (10.29 cts), 645 diamonds (10.99 cts) ~21.28 carats

Reference: Q2893202

Production: Unique piece

Originally conceived and developed for jewellery watches and introduced in 1929 by La Grande Maison, Calibre 101 revolutionised feminine watchmaking – its minuscule size and baguette shape offering new realms of aesthetic freedom to designers. Developed half a century before the advent of computer-aided design and production technology, Calibre 101 is a remarkable feat of miniaturisation. At 14mm long, less than 5mm wide and weighing barely one gram, the tiny, hand-wound calibre remains the smallest mechanical movement in the world. It is also one of the world’s oldest movements that continues to be in production.

Over the years, Calibre 101 has appeared in jewellery watches by Jaeger-LeCoultre under its name, as well as in creations by other great Maisons. These rare timepieces have graced the wrists of exceptional women, including Queen Elizabeth II, who wore one – a gift from France’s Président– for her coronation in 1953.

New expressions of femininity

For the two new diamond-set timepieces, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house artistic team has taken a jewellery-led approach – first, designing the forms of the bracelets and the style of gem-setting, then integrating the cases and movements into the designs. Whereas designing a watch normally takes the opposite approach, beginning with the case and then creating bracelets or straps to complement it.

Both bracelets adhere faithfully to the classical high jewellery codes and are composed of pink gold set with diamonds – using only stones classified IF to VVS. However, the designs are utterly different in both form and character, emphasising the creative freedom allowed by the diminutive Calibre 101.

Snowdrop

Inspired by the white bell-shaped flowers that are able to grow through a thin layer of snow in the Vallée de Joux, the manchette-style Snowdrop exudes delicate femininity. A circle of pear-shaped diamonds surrounds the dial to form a flower, and waves of diamonds repeat the petal pattern in perfect symmetry, all the way around the bracelet. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers chose a ‘griffe’ setting for the diamonds, which minimises the metal’s presence and allows light to pass through the stones from all angles. This intensifies the spark of the watch, creating an impression that the diamonds could almost be floating on the surface of the bracelet.

With 904 diamonds, of which 204 are pear-shaped and the remainder brilliant-cut (for a total of 20.9 carats), the gem-setting work alone represents 130 hours of work by the jewellery artisans of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. As seen from its profile, the bracelet’s structure is supported by two bands of gold, each of them grain-set with diamonds – a linear setting technique in which tiny beads of gold are pulled up from the surface of the metal and pushed over the stone to secure it.

Bangle

The Bangle watch is an altogether bolder expression of femininity, inspired by the graceful geometry of Art Deco and the strong forms of 20th-Century Modernism. A dynamic interplay of symmetry and asymmetry, the bracelet is set with 996 brilliant-cut diamonds (for a total 19.7 carats), graduated in size to emphasise the sweeping curves of the design. The artisans have combined the griffe (144 diamonds) and grain setting (852 diamonds) techniques to heighten the diamond’s three-dimensional effect and maximise the play of light.

Rows of grain-set diamonds highlight the gold bands that run along both sides of the bracelet, supporting its structure. The bracelet needs no clasp as it delicately opens with a simple twist of its two sides.

Calibre 101

As watchmaking became increasingly sophisticated from the late 19th century onwards, Jaeger-LeCoultre developed new solutions to many horological challenges – including miniaturisation. Among the Maison’s innovations were the diminutive LeCoultre Calibre 7HP, introduced in 1880 for small enamelled and gem-set watches; and LeCoultre Calibre 6EB, introduced in 1908, which measured barely more than 1cm square.

Appearing in 1929, Calibre 101 represents the apotheosis of this quest to merge accurate timekeeping with tiny dimensions, conclusively demonstrating Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of micro-mechanical engineering. Rather than having its components set on a single plate, Calibre 101 adopted the “stacked” dual-level architecture first developed by the Manufacture for the Duoplan movement in 1925. The escapement is set on one plane, the barrel and cogs on another – and the mainspring is wound by a flat crown set into the base of the case.

Now more than 90 years old, the movement has benefited over the years from many improvements in materials and machining, but its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged. The present, fourth-generation movement, Calibre 101/4 has 98 components (compared with the original 78), measures 14 mm x 4.8 mm, with a thickness of 3.4 mm (a volume of 0.2 cm3), and weighs barely one gram. Its balance wheel oscillates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hertz frequency) and the mainspring provides a power reserve of 33 hours.

Due to the tiny scale, each of the components must be custom-produced and adjusted – making every Calibre 101 unique. Only a handful of watchmakers at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture have ever mastered the skills necessary to produce and assemble movements at such a microscopic scale. Consequently, only a few dozen can be produced each year to grace the wrists of exceptional women.

Specifications:

101 Snowdrop

Case size: 18.35 x 5.98 mm

Movement: Calibre 101 – manually wound, with 33 hours of power reserve

Functions: Hours, Minutes

Dial: Silvered opaline

Bracelet: Pink gold set with 904 diamonds, including brilliant-cut and 204 pear-shaped stones for 20.9 carats

Reference: Q2882201

101 Bangle

Case size: 18.35 x 5.98 mm

Movement: Calibre 101 – manually wound, with 33 hours of power reserve

Functions: Hours, Minutes

Dial: Silvered opaline

Bracelet: Pink gold set with 996 brilliant-cut diamonds for 19,7 carats

Reference: Q2892201

Miniature movement

Under the dome of the elegant and refined leaf, which gives it part of its name, this new jewellery-watch conceals the renowned Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101. Developed by the Manufacture in 1929, it remains the smallest mechanical movement in the world to this day. An exception in terms of miniaturisation: 98 components manufactured and assembled at the Manufacture with a volume of 0.2 cm³, thickness of 3.4 mm and weighing barely a gramme.

A new look with white gold and diamonds

Delicate, feminine and timeless, this unique interpretation allows white gold to shine in all its glory. Under a bed of 171 diamonds (10.13 carats) of different diameters, set individually by hand to cover the precious metal completely, the secrets of the infinitely small are either hidden from the eyes or revealed to the light of day. Closely reproducing the curved and sensual lines of a leaf, the headdress of this secret watch can be raised or lowered with one simple movement. Whenever its owner desires, the 101 Feuille watch in white gold unveils its silvered opaline dial with absolute discretion.

Expressing the art of gem-setting and hand-engraving, the 101 Feuille jewellery-watch in white gold offers signature Jaeger-LeCoultre Rare Handcrafts™ (Métiers Rares®) characteristics a new chance to shine. And to light up the eyes of women who appreciate the art of watchmaking in its more technical, more precious and more spectacular state.

Technical specifications:

Dimensions: 18.35mm x 6.80mm

Thickness: 5.47mm (without the leaf)

Calibre: Manually wound mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101/4

Functions: hours, minutes

Case: white gold

Dial: silvered opaline

Bracelet: white gold set with diamonds

Carats: 171 brilliant-cut diamonds (10.13 carats)

Reference: Q2863303

A miniature movement at the heart of two jewellery watches

Since 1929, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101 has stood out in terms of the mastery of absolute miniaturisation. At the time, pocket watches were giving way to wristwatches, which were particularly prized by women who dreamed of wearing a jewel on their wrist that brought together the precision of mechanical operations and a refined aesthetic. This calibre took its inspiration from the famous Duoplan movement, characterised by its division into two horizontal planes, one on top of the other. Now almost one hundred years old, and having benefited from all those years of expertise, it is still said to be the smallest mechanical movement in the world. Contained in a volume of 0.2 cm3 and measuring 14 mm x 4.8 mm, with a thickness of 3.4 mm, each Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101 is unique. Each of its components is custom manufactured and adjusted. Weighing barely a gramme, this micromechanical masterpiece contains 98 components assembled by hand by only a handful of watchmakers, since there are only a rare few who have mastered the painstaking assembly of something so small and precise. As a reminder, its balance wheel oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, a remarkable technical challenge in terms of precision.

From the height of mechanical complexity to pure jewellery

The iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101 has stood the test of time and fashion, always lending itself well to women’s desires, which can sometimes change a little, sometimes a lot, and often passionately. As these two new versions in pink gold can attest. To best reflect the glamorous world of the Venice International Film Festival, the 101 Reine and the 101 Feuille are each adorned with 110 pavé diamonds for the Reine, and 167 pavé diamonds for the Feuille, nestled against one another and arranged by hand at the Manufacture’s workshops. On the silvered opaline dial, two discreet Baton hands reflect eternal femininity. And could anything better enhance the union of mechanical perfection and jewellery excellence than pink gold? Sensuous, exquisitely feminine, and timeless, this precious metal is perfectly suited to its new starring role. Where the 101 Reine is immediately recognisable as regal, the 101 Feuille is more mysterious, more secretive. Echoing a leaf's delicacy, its lid, which takes the shape of a headdress, can be raised or closed at will, thanks to a secret mechanism, revealing or concealing the passage of time. Under the curves of its organic lines, adorned with brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, the dial of the watch is either hidden from the eyes or revealed to the light of day. An enchanting costume for this star of watchmaking mechanisms.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has a special connection to the world of film, sharing with it both daring creativity and a respect for tradition. As partner of the 2018 Venice International Film Festival, the Manufacture is once again paying tribute to stars and actresses, but also to all those women who have the gift of transforming the scenes of daily life into unforgettable moments. For their first public appearance since the SIHH, the new pink gold 101 Reine and 101 Feuille models could not have asked for a more beautiful backdrop than Venice. On the red carpet and on the wrist, will it be the watch or the High Jewellery piece that steals the spotlight? At heart, though, there really isn’t a conflict, each blends into the other, forming a partnership that puts sparkles in the eyes of women each day.

Discover the human face of the luxury sector at Homo Faber, 14-30 September 2018

From the September 14^th to 30^th, visitors to Homo Faber in Venice will be able to witness some of the incredible skills and techniques mastered by artisans working in the European luxury sector and presented in the exhibit Discovery and Rediscovery. Homo Faber is the first event organized by the Michelangelo Foundation, an international non-profit organization based in Geneva, Switzerland. The event was set up to celebrate and to preserve master craftsmanship and the link to the world of creativity and design. For this occasion, Jaeger-LeCoultre is proud to present the Calibre 101, symbol of the unique expertise of the watchmakers of the Grande Maison, and smallest mechanical movement in the world since its creation in 1929.

Please find more information on : https://www.homofaberevent.com/

101 Reine

Size: 18.35 mm x 6.80mm

Thickness: 5.47mm

Calibre: 101/4 -Manual

Functions: Hour/Minute

Dial: Silvered opalin

Bracelet: Pink gold set with diamonds

Carat: 110 diamonds, Quality FG, VVS

Reference : Q2812204

101 Feuille 

Size: 18.35 mm x 6.80mm

Thickness: 5.47mm (without the leaf)

Calibre: 101/4 -Manual

Functions: Hour/Minute

Dial: Silvered opalin

Bracelet: Pink gold set with diamonds

Carat: 167 diamonds, Quality FG, VVS

Reference : Q2862201